Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Dec 23, 2004 08:43pm | #1

   Like linseed oil, walnut oil will eventually polymerize into a stable finish but this takes months to accomplish and it may not be practical for applications other than on a cutting board where a little oil seeping out of the wood occasionally will do no harm. 

   If you want to use a safe and pleasant to work with oil, that will harden more quickly and build up a finish, try using the boiled linseed oil from "Tried and True".  Their oil is pure linseed oil with no additives, but it has been heat treated to accelerate the hardening.  Pure linseed oil is edible and is called flax seed oil in health food stores, but again the food store version is untreated and very slow to harden.

   John W. 

1. 
   Thumbsmasher | Dec 24, 2004 08:14pm | #4

   Thanks JohnW, 

   I actually have a can of Tried and True that I've yet to open -- waiting for a big project that will consume most of it. 

   I wonder whether walnut oil can be heated like pure linseed oil in order to help with polymerization.  I've learned that most vegetable oils will tend to polymerize more readily under the influence of heat -- it happens to be the achilles heal of trying to burn straight vegetable oil in diesel engines.

   I guess I like the idea of running down to my local health food store to buy my finish rather than having to mail order or make a trip to the big city.

   Maybe I'll conduct an experiment.  Any suggestions as to how long and at what temperature to heat the oil?

   Thanks

1. 
   lwj2 | Dec 25, 2004 02:31am | #7

   Thumb:Walnut oil has a flash point of >300°F, boils at 500°Fhttp://libertynatural.com/msd/127.htmIf you elect to try it, I'd use a double boiler to do it, outside, well away from buildings and trees.Note that it goes BOOM before it boils.Note also comments about allergens. I doubt that heating it will alter these factors.Regards,Leon Jester, Roanoke VA

2. 
   BG | Dec 24, 2004 01:44am | #2

   thumbsmasher,

   Why would you not use your hands with the oil-varnish-mineral spirits ??  I do it with my Waterlox...apply a nice thin coat and rub it in well.  Is it really something I should not be doing?

    

1. 
   Thumbsmasher | Dec 24, 2004 08:05pm | #3

   Read the warnings on the can.  I used to get linseed oil and mineral spirits all over my hands, but I eventually realized that this was not a good practice, so  I started wearing disposable gloves.  It's advisable to avoid direct skin contact with petroleum solvents and the heavy metals in "boiled" linseed oil and varnish since they can be absorbed through the skin.  If you work with this stuff regularly, it's best to minimize long-term exposure.

    

3. 
   ChipTam | Dec 24, 2004 09:08pm | #5

   I've used walnut oil on cutting boards in the past.  Walnut oil is one of the few vegtable oils that won't turn rancid.  However, I always wondered weather walnut oil would affect people with nut allergies.  Last summer, I met a lady who has had nut allergies since she was a child and she assured me that, yes, she would have a severe reaction to walnut oil on a cutting board.  It's a serious problem for her and she carries a vial with some sort of anti-toxin whereever she goes.

               Chip

4. 
   forestgirl | Dec 24, 2004 09:19pm | #6

   Thumb, evidently you missed the following discussion on finishing cutting boards vis a vis serious tree nut allergy problems:
   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=20474.12

   It was imbedded in a thread about wood choices for cutting boards.

   Please consider finishing all of your cutting boards and wooden utensils with mineral oil.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)