Does anyone know what kind of dye I can apply to walnut sap to match the color of the dark walnut? If so where can I buy it and does anyone have tips on how to apply it so that the walnut has a uniform color? I have been told to use a premix walnut sap stain from woodfinishsupplies.com but I have been unable to locate it on the web. Any other suggestions?
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Replies
Click on this link and scroll down until you find dye sap stains - http://www.woodfinishingsupplies.com/Stains.htm
Or, use the dyes Jeff Jewitt recommended on his forum (he also sells the products he recommended).
Or, contact the folks at http://www.woodfinishsupply.com
Or, contact the folks at http://mohawk-finishing.com/
As to applying the dye, read the post from the last time you asked this question.
Paul
F'burg, VA
Thanks for the advice and the web sites. I will let you know how it turns out.
Glad to help! If possible, before and after pictures would be great.
I'm pretty sure you'll be surprised how easy it is to dye the sap wood.
Paul
F'burg, VA
I put a coat of Boiled Linseed Oil and Turpentine (50/50) on all surfaces then use dry powdered pigments (burnt umber) on the oil wet rag to rub it into the sapwood. I then wipe off the excess in the direction of the grain and allow to dry for 24 hours. I will repeat if necessary.
Remember that the walnut will lighten with age, so your stained sapwood may end up darker than the heartwood. I always stain the sapwood a little lighter to allow for the eventual change.
Stephen Shepherd
Please explain dry powerded pigments. I am not familiar with these or how they work or how to apply them..Thanks
Dry powdered pigments are natural earth colors, iron oxides, ochers, burnt umber, etc. that are finely ground and can be mixed with oils, varnish, shellac or water based products to make stains and glazes. The advantage is that you can control the color as you are applying them for various shades and intensities.
I usually apply an oil/turps mix then dab on the pigments and rub them in until I get the right color, then wipe off the excess and allow to dry for 24 hours. A light sanding, another coat if necessary and a finish of shellac or varnish.
Stephen Shepherd
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