Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 06, 2002 02:56am | #1

   Make sure you're using lacquer thinner and not another solvent in case that's what is causing the beading.

   Mix 1 part dye concentrate to 10 parts lacquer thinner and stir well. Once mixed, apply a small amount to an area of the sapwood that is out of view to see how the color looks. Adjust the color by further thinning or adding more dye - a little dye goes a long way. Color the sapwood a shade or two lighter than the heartwood.

   If you want to "stain" the walnut, you can start with a light colored dye - something in the yellow/orange/brown range - to highlight the contrasting grain. Starting with a dark colored dye gives the results you've seen - it hides the contrasting grain. The light colored dye is followed by a warm brown or purple brown wiping stain in the shade of your choice. Hopefully you have only applied the dye to scrap wood at this point and don't need to remove the dark "chocolate" dye from your project.

   Any finish you put over the dye will bring the grain out - with the exception of most water-base finishes. Any oil finish will do a good job - pick the finish that has the level of durability you want for the piece. Some "tung oil" finishes are actually varnish and provide a good level of protection. Others are an oil/varnish blend that look nice but are not as durable. There's been some recent posts on this subject you may want to take a look at.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   AllenS51 | Nov 06, 2002 02:20pm | #2

   Paul,

   Thanks for the info.  One other question is how is the best way to apply the dye to the wood?  I have not sprayed it because I have just been using small pieces to test with and I was lazy and did not want to clean my gun.  The directions however recommend spraying it but thus far I have wiped and brushed.  Do you think the application will make a difference?

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 07, 2002 01:01am | #3

   Allen,

   I like to use the spray gun because I can precisely control where the dye goes and how much is applied. If you're just blending the sapwood, turn the fluid down until it's barely coming out and adjust the fan width as narrow as you can (pencil thickness) - then "airbrush" the sapwood with light coat(s) of the dye to blend it in with the heartwood.

   You can also use a brush, take your time and don't load the brush with too much dye. Artists brushes in the appropriate size make it a pretty easy job. If you get the dye too heavy in a spot, use a rag and lacquer thinner to lighten the spot.

   If you are dying an entire item (like a dresser or other piece of furniture), the spray gun makes the job fast with even application of the color. Use a 3-4" fan with the fluid very low and spray a couple light coats overlapping each pass 50%. With a little practice, you can dye large surfaces very quickly without any lap lines. Usually, your dye should be lighter than the final color you want on the piece.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   AllenS51 | Nov 07, 2002 04:37am | #4

   Paul,

   I am at a loss for words.  I tried thinning 10:1 like you suggested but the color did not match,  The sap colored seemed to be more amber than the heartwood.  It looks as if I make the color darker I will get to the chocolate color again.  It is almost like I need another color to blend with this to make it match the heartwood.  I am inexperienced in this field and I do not know how to correct this.  Thinning seemed to be a better match than the original dye but the sap turned out more brown than the heartwood of the walnut.  Let me ask a stupid question,  when I dye the sap should I be trying the match the bear heartwood color or should it be lighter or darker?  This seems so simple but I am having the roughest time matching the color I want.  Maybe I do not know what I am looking for but I am trying to match this perfect and I am having no luck. 

   What I have done so far looks better than the straight sap but there is still a contrast that I do not like.  I appreciate all of the great tips but I am still lost.

   Thanks

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 07, 2002 05:14am | #5

   Allen,

   Don't give up yet. Remember you want to get a shade or two lighter than the heartwood.

   The 10:1 ratio was a starting point. Now add 1 more measure of dye for a 10:2 ratio and see how it looks. If it's still too light, try a 10:3, 10:4, etc. until you get close but not quite as dark. If there is some contrast, that's fine - a little contrast can look very nice.

   When it looks close, wipe the area (both dyed and surrounding heartwood) with mineral spirits or naptha to see how the wood will look when the clear coats are applied.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

2. 
   AllenS51 | Nov 09, 2002 05:02pm | #6

   Paul,

   The problem is that when I tried the higher ratios the sap wood starts looking antique or darker black while the heartwood is a more warm looking brown.  The contrast is almost like a stained poplar with a water based stain and walnut with tung oil.  I still have not found a combination that will match my liking.  Is the sap dye the only thing I need or do I need to play around with a combination of dyes and or stains?  Do you happen to have a before and after picture of some walnut with  sap that you have dyed?  If you do I would appreciate seeing it.  Thanks for all of the advice, maybe after a year or two of practicing I will be an expert.....

   Allen

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 09, 2002 08:03pm | #7

   Allen,

   I don't have any pictures of dyed walnut and I just checked the two walnut boards I have on hand and they don't have sap wood.

   Can you post a picture of the closest match you've gotten so far? Wipe the wood with mineral spirits or naptha just before taking the photo to bring out the color of the wood (dyed sap wood and surrouding heart wood). If I could see the problem you're describing, I think it would help a lot.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

4. 
   bsutton12 | Nov 19, 2002 09:08pm | #8

   Try applying an orange dye, followed by a medium or golden brown.  The orange will warm up the walnut and the brown will tone down the orange.  I am attaching a couple of photos of a chair I recently completed.  Although there is still a trace of sap wood showing in the front left leg, this process evened out the color of the walnut without darkening it significantly.