I built a solid walnut staircase which turned out fantastic. My plan on applying the finish is as follows.
Sand (completed)
Apply Minwax English Oak (yellowish tint) to blend the colors of the wood and bring out the elegance and grain of walnut (Completed).
I plan on finishing with oil based polyurethane.
I do not mind at all any elbow grease which would be required to make it beautiful since this is my own house and I have no time limit.
My question is … should I put on a coat of boiled linseed oil or shellac before applying the satin polyurethane. I thought this might bring out the beauty of the grain more than the polyurethane.
I would appreciate any comments or helpful insights.
Thanks
Johnny
Edited 9/24/2006 6:02 am ET by Bodarc
Replies
Johnny,
Congratulations for doing this. It must have been quite a job.
At this point, skip the linseed oil. A coat of blonde shellac will seal the surface very well. Zinseer Seal Coat is what you should use. It is de-waxed blonde shellac. A thin coat ( or two) will seal the oil stain and give you a foundation to build your finish on. Give it a very light sanding and dust it off.
I would change one thing though. Use gloss urethane for your first coats. You will have much better clarity this way. For the final coat you can put on the satin if you'd like. However, if it were me, I would use gloss only. After you have a few coats on, let it cure for a week or two. Be sure and brush on thin coats. They will dry and cure quicker than thick coats.
You can check the cure rate two ways. Press your thumb nail into an inconspicuous area. You want the surface to resist denting. Also use your nose. If the oil smell is still strong it isn't cured yet.
After it's cured I would rub it down. This will give you the satin appearance you were looking for. If there are any specs or dust, I would use a wetdry paper with water and a dash of soap in it. Start out with 1000 grit. It may seem overly fine but it does the trick and doesn't cut the just cured surface too aggressively. You can find this at an auto body supply house.
I would follow this with a final rubbing with 0000 steel wool ( use Liberon wool, it's the best) or a white scotch pad. You can lubricate the wool or pads with wax to help prevent burning. Buff this with a soft cloth and stand back and admire your work. To be sure, everyone who runs their hands over it will.
Just be careful with your edges while wet sanding and rubbing. They can be easy to cut through.
Let us know how it comes out.
Peter Gedrys
Dear PeterThank you so much for your reply. I bought the walnut from a widow who's husband used to make gun stocks. It was rough cut 2 inch slabs air dried for about 20 years in an old barn and they were covered in dust and looked like scrap wood. It took me longer to get a straight board than it did to make the parts (laughs) but I am very proud of it and I can't thank you enough for your help. I'll send you a pic of it when I finish if you'd like.Thanks againJohnny
Johnny,
Sounds beautiful. Definitely send us a picture when you're done.
Have fun.
Peter
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