Warped GRIZZLY “G1023SL” table saw top
![](https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/03c93476ec93ed4be27a2d1bb497628f?s=52&d=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.finewoodworking.com%2Fapp%2Favatars%2F200x200%2Fn.png&r=g)
I just received a GRIZZLY 10″ Model G1023SL Left tilt table-saw. I found that the table was warped while in the process of setting up the saw.Just to the left of the saw blade the table dives off to a depth of .009″-.010″ at about midpoint table front to back, that would be .009″-.010″ dorp in 6″ GRIZZLY origonly agreed to replace the top.
Now a week after they agreed to replace the top I was told that they did not have a top avalable by tec support and now two days after I received a call telling me that the top was well within industry standards and would not be replaced.My question is ,what are the industry standards for a table saw top sold as perfectly flat?
Replies
Welcome to the World of Grizzly, the Ranks of the Disenchanted Bargain Hunters.
See my post under "Grizzly Too Good To Be True?"
(The answer to this question is mostly yes.)
Jeff
Good one everyone should read that befor buying the 400 lb. green door stops allthough it would be fine for anyone who is just using it to do rough rips.
Nic, I consider .01 very flat for a cast iron top on any machine.Think about it , your talking about one hundredth of an inch.I used a an old walker turner saw that was much more warped than your saw.This saw was used every single day for more years than I care to remember.
We did not know the table was warped until the shop was sold and the equipment went up for auction. Then one potential customer checked the saw out and found the table was warped.I do not recall how much but I believe it was ..060, we never had any problems with this old saw other than replacing the switch.
I think your top is within tolerances. I had an old Oliver jointer I had to have reground and and got it within .010" and it was within their standards. Worked fine. My Powermatic was off by .015" and they said it was within their tolerances. Never had any problems working with it and I'm always using calipers for measuring stuff. I also have a 4' and 6' starrett straight edge because I fix and tune machinery so I would say from experience your saw is not bad. I was working on a Delta professional 8" jointer and the infeed tables were slightly skewed from each other by .015" and they accept .008" so I'm doing a swap for another one. I could shim it but since it's under warranty what the heck. I still may have to tweak it a bit. If you want better tolerances learn how to scrape the table. Thats how old time machinists did it.
Rick
Edited 8/7/2002 9:08:35 PM ET by rsl
OK, but remember it was .010" over 6 inches. We could guess more or less .040" over the front to back distance. Right?
If so, that sounds less than you would hope for a brand new TS.
Jeff
Have you ever checked the flatness of that perfectly jointed and planed board? I bet if you have perfect machines you can't get a single board as flat and straight as your saw table.
Tight is tight tighter is broken!
well I hope that I can with further inspection after reinstalling the top I found that going diagonal from the top rt corner to the low spot there is allmost a 1/16 of an inch. But Im not bitching about GRIZZLY they agreed to send a new table. Also I have matained many different saws and have not ever run into one warped like this one, other than an old ROCWELL that was knocked over and we had the top machined flat.
The wings on tha griz are as perfect as anyone could get reguardless of the rest of the top. I would not have noticed at all except for the fact of tha masive ledge that appeared whan attempting to assemble the top
And some how the griz 8"jointer with weels has a flat top which both are in alignment as for tha board it is flat too . weird
Tough conversation here. I'v heard that .005 is considered to be excellent and that Jet and Powermatic get pretty close to that out of the box. Delta is said to be around .007 on the average for the off shore products.
If you are having a tough time getting action out of Grizzly and you think that the saw is worth saving then you might consider taking the tops to a machine shop and having them resurfaced.
1/16" is pretty bad. Your first post made it sound like .010". You should get a new top out of Grizzly.
In the first post I was olny aware of the area to the left of the blade which would have affected a sq cut doing a cutoff with the T sq. I was told that they would repalce and left it at that. After I was told they would not I did inspect the top further. where it was found that diag. it was much worse. The interesting thing I found was that the tabs for the insert were welded on,fixed from a poor casting I would guess. the warpage is most likely from that weld it seems that there is a crown around this area of the saw also "the tabs for the insert"
Oh My, that really does not sound good at all. It would be unfortunate if Grizzly did not replace it. Is Grizzly fully aware of all the problems that you have identified?
IT is getting replaced now they are shipping a new top with a return slip for this one they have been totaly reasonable about this situation reguardless of the first cancelation on the replacement.
That's great news.
My experiance has been Grizzly will bend over backwards to make stuff right. far better than my expeiance with Delta....
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled