Replies

1. 
   BruceS | Jun 21, 2006 11:03pm | #1

   Possibly, But not likely to get it totally back to dead flat. Try drying convex side up, It might straighten out on it's own when the lumber reaches equilibrium.  Or lightly dampen the convex side and let it dry with that  face up.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

   ---

   Edited 6/21/2006 6:01 pm ET by BruceS

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/21/2006 6:03 pm ET by BruceS

2. 
   forestgirl | Jun 22, 2006 06:26pm | #2

   "Or lightly dampen the convex side and let it dry with that  face up."  Unfortunately, Bruce got this part backwards.

   I've straightened (uncupped) several small table tops and other boards using the "dampen and re-dry" technique.  You do not need clamps!  They don't help. Here's how it works....

   The concave side of the board has dried more than the convex side.  So, what you need to do is raise the moisture level of the concave side, lower the moisture level of the convex side in comparison, get it to dry flat, and get a protective finish on it ASAP.

   In your situation, you may simply need to flip the assembly over and let the concave side absorb some moisture until the whole thing is flat.  Then sticker it up in your workshop, let it dry evenly and get a moisture barrier on it, or at least don't put it down in the same moist area it was in before.

   With an older piece of wood, what you do is lay the wood, concave side down, out on the grass with a layer of newsprint underneath until it flattens (in not-too-hot sun).  These conditions can be duplicated by using a damp towel and a chicken-hatching light.  Anything that raises the humidity on one side and lowers it on the other.  Then, once it dries, if it re-cups you do it over again, but bring the board slightly past dead flat (e.g., cupped on the other side) and then let it dry again.

   It's really important when you let it dry that it be stickered up to get air ciruclation all the way around the two faces.

   PS:  Welcome! 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/22/2006 7:52 pm by forestgirl

1. 
   gibbymacmaster | Jun 22, 2006 09:38pm | #3

   dear forest girl..

   so many thanks for your time and effort posting the technique to correct my warped wood.  my troubles are the simple definitions of concave and convex, cyma recta, reversa, etc...  perhaps it's a dyslexia thing?  probably just lazy brain syndrome!

   your input is most appreciated and will be followed!

    

   bruce

2. 
   BruceS | Jun 23, 2006 12:56am | #5

   Forestgirl,  My slip,  What you said is what I meant to say.  And I knew better.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 23, 2006 02:50am | #6

   "And I knew better."  As well you should!  ROFL!!  <dig, dig>forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 22, 2006 10:58pm | #4

   Good question.. I just did that with some reaction ASH... Geee.. I had one board about 18 inches wide.. Now it is strips of about 4 inches wide glued together... ALMOST flat! and ALOT thinner than it was at the beginning!

   Edit: Wood is like a woman.. You see beautiful and ya' but up with the faults!!

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/22/2006 4:03 pm by WillGeorge

4. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 23, 2006 02:52pm | #7

   Use the 6-pack method. On a nice, sunny day, water the lawn first thing in the morning. After the day warms up and the sun comes out, place the offending piece of wood on the lawn so the concave/hollow side is down. Open first beer. Drink at a leisurly pace. Check board. Repeat as needed.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   gibbymacmaster | Jun 23, 2006 06:54pm | #8

   well spoken mike!  thanks!