Your suggestions for wood to use.. I have my own ideas but you folks smarten en’ me so here goes…
Shoji frames.. About 1.5 X 1.5 by 4 foot wide and about 7 foot tall.
Mostly about the least warping.. I can work with most any wood that is cheap!
Your suggestions for wood to use.. I have my own ideas but you folks smarten en’ me so here goes…
Shoji frames.. About 1.5 X 1.5 by 4 foot wide and about 7 foot tall.
Mostly about the least warping.. I can work with most any wood that is cheap!
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Replies
Hi,
I think there are several things you would have to take care with.
1- Straight grained lumber that is dryed well.
2- Choosing the species- Some species are more prone to warpage than others. Read up on the available ones in your area before going ahead.
3- Milling of the stock. Once you have gotten past the first two items,
mill the stock down to perhaps a 1/16" oversize in thickness. Let the wood sit for a few days on a nice flat table or other surface. The stock that twists a lot will not be suitable. Take the rest and mill it down to final dimension.
4- Once you have milled the stock and cut all the joinery and are ready for glue up. Make sure the table you are gluing up the shoji panel on is flat as possible.
Good luck!
Tom
I completely agree that the care spent in chosing and prep will pay off. But there's another aspect you should keep in mind - if the shoji are going to run in the traditional manner (wooden track) they need to be as light as possible. If you can get clear straight grained cedar it works beautifully. Shojis in Japan are never made from heavy wood.
DR
The lighter the better, but any wood will work once you understand the proper way to construct a shoji. There is a certain pattern to use when cutting the notches. This virtually eliminates any warp. You just don't "weave" them over and under. I learned the proper way from an Japanese craftsman. I'll post a diagram later.
Thank you all for the input. I should have been more specific..
I guess I should have stated the 'species' of wood you would recommend..
I can't use cedar because the person I will be making them for gets a rash from it.I was thinking of using cypress.. Light but not sure how it holds up to warpage when cut.. In the traditional manner I plan not to finish the wood in any way. I have a lot to make so just wanted to know the best wood to use.
A friend and just can't walk away and say.. 'Here it is!'
Will, I used mahogany for the grid ( because I had a lot left over from a large job.) and use pine framing lumber from a house being torn down in the neighborhood, because it was cheap, like $1 per board.Clear white pine would be nice to use for this, and poplar would be a little cheaper but heavier.
You can see the ones in my studio at http://www.treetales.com
good luck K
in my studio ..
Sorry I forgot to respond.. NICE WORK!
Keith, I just checked out your website. Very impressive! The desk you made for Hilary is one of the coolest designs I've ever seen! Bill Lindau
Thanks Will and Bill. I think I did that back in 1989. When they were in the Arkansas Governors mansion. This was not to be her main work desk for the office, but rather for the work that she would bring home.It was not used in the White House. Each new administration usually totally re-decorates the WH before they move in, and has a huge inventory of previous furnishings uses by other presidents to choose from. The interior designer that they chose for this task is a friend of mine, but her taste is much too traditional to choose something that contemporary for use in the WH. That was a shame, as far as I'm concerned. Otherwise, my name might have been as widely known as Sam Maloof. HaWell if you liked that one I look forward to showing you my latest desk. It may be used in the viewers gallery of Fine Woodworking, along with an article about how to build and fit compound curved doors into a bulging tilting carcass, and making the hinges, if that can be edited into four pages.
Thanks again, Keith
Edited 3/26/2005 10:24 am ET by rootburl
Will,
I had the pleasure of seeing an expert make a small shoji from scratch during a demonstration when Japanese craftsmen with Kezurou-Kai visited last summer. He used softwood, but I don't recall the species; looks like it's probably fir in the attached photo. Just for grins, I have also attached a picture of Funatsu-San, a blacksmith whose work is remarkable - to say the least.
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
a blacksmith whose work is remarkable..
Thanks.. At first when I saw the fire-pit I was thinkin' he was going to harden the wood! LOL..
Will,
See how remarkable in the attached snapshots.
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Here in Japan they use Hinoki (Cypress) for shoji with out exception. The house I live in is 40 years plus and no sign on warpage in any of the shoji. I don't think you can contribute that to just the wood. Wood is usually selected form the local area, this way it is more durable for that climate. Heart wood goes on the inside and sapwood on the outside, base of the tree at the bottom, top of the tree goes up. I'll qualify that with craftsman of old. This "art" (like in the west) is being replaced with the time is money so build the structure as fast as you can (read power tools). So the craftsman's (here it's "Shokunin" ) knowledge is held by fewer and fewer people.
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