I am applying boiled linseed oil to cherry samples – my understanding is this washcoat will reduce splotching effects that are inherent in cherry. I discovered when I put on liberal amounts and wiped it dry it produced the very splotching effects I thought the BLO was supposed to address. On the other sample (my wife) came up with the idea of dabbing the cloth in the oil and applying it sparingly – this seemed to work. I cannot find really any guidance from reading a few articled on how to apply the BLO – I thought it would not make a difference so long as I was wiping it dry if I put it on wet. What is the best way to apply lindseed oil?
Also, I bought a gallon of the stuff from the hardware store – do I apply it straight from the can or do I need to dilute it with alcohol?
Thanks – Tom
Replies
I think BLO will enhance your grain. To reduce splotching (which is really just the grain of the wood and can be very lovely) the wash coat is usually thin shellac I believe.
Tom,
The purpose of applying BLO is usually to enhance the grain and figure of the wood, which is what it is doing to your cherry. A wash coat will minimize the blotching by minimizing the amount of oil reaching the wood to almost nothing. Basically what I am saying is if you don't want the look that the oil is giving you, then don't use the oil. The BLO is doing what it is intended to do. It is showing you the figure in your wood, this isn't really blotching.
BLO is usually applied straight from the can in a heavy coat allowed to soak in for 15-30 minutes and then the excess is wiped off.
Rob
BLO also "ages" cherry quickly. It gives it that darker color fast.
Tom, you may have been misled. BLO enhances the "blotchy look" on cherry, at least from my experiences. If you do a really thin pre wash (like 1# cut) of shellac it will lessen this affect, but keep in mind it will also lessen the depth you would get with straight BLO, too.
Edited 4/27/2007 10:38 am ET by blewcrowe
I did review Jeff Jewitt's article in FWW 133 (or was it 130) about finishing cherry and he gave two methods - I am not going with the dark shellac but the first of his two choices was a waschoat of BLO followed by the shellac. I also consulted http://www.finishwiz.com who shows samples with BLO applied- I did note he says he puts on a very light coat. I am confused as to applying little or a lot of BLO or applying shellac first or BLO first. I think I may do another test piece with the little vs. lot to see if I get simiar results. - Tom
How does one do a washcoat of BLO? Is it thinned, or just put on sparingly or what?
As said, BLO will not do anything to reduce blotching. If fact, it tends to enhance it. The amber in the BLO actually is a coloring and as more oil is absorbed in areas that color unevenly, the amber in the BLO will appear darker in those areas where more oil is absorbed.To reduce bloching you want to take steps to make the coloring be absorbed more evenly. This is generally done by using a thin coating of a film finish like shellac, lacquer or even a very thin varnish. This thin coat is called a "wash coat". I have found that each cherry project is different. Cherry is very variable in the way it behaves. That's the reason I always make up samples to determine which process is going to work best. When I want a natural look to the cherry, I will generally start off with a dilute water based amber dye. This tends to even out the coloring. I then apply a coat of amber shellac followed by some wiped on coats of thinned wiping varnish. Sometimes I will break out the spray gun and apply a couple of coats of a pre-cat lacquer.If I plan to stain the project I still first apply the amber dye. Then a coat of shellac followed by a gel stain of the color I want. Then I will clear coat it.Howie.........
I like the look BLO has on the wood - what do you think of putting on a thin coat of the shellac, dry, sand it down then putting on the BLO? Is this a better idea than what I am trying now?
I've never tried that. Try it on some scrap from your project. Go through your whole finishing schedule and see how it looks.Howie.........
You don't say so specifically, but I assume you are going to stain the cherry -- hence your concern about blotching. If you are going to simply brush or spray a film finish (without staining it first), then you don't have to worry about blotching. Incidentally, if you do thin your BLO, you should use paint thinner (mineral spirits) -- not alcohol.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I am beginning to think maybe starting with boiled linseed oil is not a good idea. Here is what I want to do - the wood looks great when I apply the oil. When I applied too much the swirly pattterns were very pronounced. I do not want to stain the wood (I guess there is some staining involved with applying the linseed oil) but I do not want to change the color - I just want to put on something that avoids blotching and then protects the finish. I do not really want to stain the wood a different color other than how it looks when wet (which is what it looks like with the boiled linseed oil). I hope this helps give you an idea what I am trying to do - I am pretty new to finishing so I am open to simple recipes - thanks, Tom
Tom,
Those "swirly patterns" usually will triple the cost of cherry. It's called figure. If you don't like it then you shouldn't use BLO. I don't know what you mean by protecting the finish. The finish is there to protect the wood. Different finishes have different protective qualities, but most of them will make the wood look like it does when it is wet with oil.
Let's start over. What is the piece you are working on and how much protection does it need. Also what is the look you are after? Do you want an in the wood finish, or a film finish?
You really should get Flexner's book "Understanding Wood Finishing". Actually I have an extra copy, because we recently moved and I thought my original copy got lost. Well, as soon as I got my new copy, I found the old one, so I now have a brand new copy that is unread and I don't need. If you are interested e-mail me through my profile and we can work something out.
Rob
If you want a nice, clear finish try:
BLO
Orange shellac- 2-3 coats
Then top it with super blonde until it is as shiny as you want.
The BLO "pops" the grain. The orange shellac tints it a bit and the clear gives a nice deep finish over it. It makes it look like an older piece. It gets better with age. I think it is very hard to make a mistake with.
Frank
I concur with the recommendation to have a look at Flexner's book. It certainly helped me unravel many of the mysteries of finishing.In fact it was Flexner who first opened my eyes to home-made wiping varnishes, which is my favorite finish for cherry. Sam Maloof also uses a version of this stuff for all his furnture. Personally, my concoction consists of about 1/3 BLO, 2/3 varnish, with enough paint thinner to make it easily wipable. The BLO will help pop the grain, and the proportions are not critical.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I like the blotchy grain look, but not in all cases. I am in California and get lots of light all the time so consider that in my tip. Get your piece completely finished sanded and ready to go (raise the grain..etc blah). Now set the piece out in the sun...temperature will help, but the suns rays are what does the trick. The sun will age the piece naturally and fast..couple of days in the sun and boom you got it. Take a test piece and place a block in the middle of the piece to block the sun. When you remove the block you will see how much your cherry has aged. The area under the block will contrast to show the amount of aging.
Now with the piece aged, you can use a wash coat of shellac or several coats of shellac to give depth. Then put on your protective coats. You will get uniform color and no blotching.
Take the drawers out and put them out with the piece.
Edited 4/27/2007 4:59 pm ET by CoachB
Tom,
Like most woodworkers I have come to know, we like to make very nice things out of wood but know very little about finishing. I have found Bob Flexner's book, Understanding Wood Finishing, to be a fantastically well written book for those of us who are not chemists nor experts in finishing.
One of the best things about that I like is that he tells you what the myths are and what the facts are.
He has a "completely revised and updated" book dated 2005. It retails for $19.95. I highly recommend you get it as a handy reference. I had heard about it for several years but was not real excited about taking precious time to read it. Like so many other things in life -- wish I had started reading it several years ago.
Alan - planesaw
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled