Any recomendations out there for using Watco danish oil finish on hardwoods. Should I use steel wool between applications or maybe a little sanding?
How many coats should I apply for top results?
Is this a good finish for a kitchen with maple cabinets that I’m building?
If not what does everyone think about a natural finish for maple cabinets? I would like to keep the natural tone of the maple, don’t want to darken it too much.
Thanks everyone!!
Brian
Replies
I love the Watco Danish Oil. My favorite technique to use with it is to apply my first coat and let it dry for about 15 minutes and then come back with my second coat. Then the next day come back and wet sand with 320 grit sandpaper with the oil. It creates a "slurry" that helps fill in the grain. Work that in real good and then wipe off the excess. Then the next day come back with 420 grit sand paper and again wet sand with the danish oil. Create the slurry and then wipe off the excess. I then wait another day and come back with just a plain coat of danish oil. That finish is almost "idiot" proof and it ALWAYS looks good. I also like to finish it off with some paste wax, but be careful not to use the paste was until the oil is good and dry.
Good Luck!
Dark Magneto
I've used Watco for many years, and am very fond of it, but am not convinced that I would use it on such a heavy use area as kitchen cabinets.
My usual method is three coats, the first is generous and re-applied until the surface remains wet, then wiped as dry as possible. A day or two later another lighter coat with wiping, and a day or two later the third coat is applied with a pad of 0000 steel wool using light pressure, than wiped off. I'd then give it several days before applying Johnson's Paste Wax and buffing.
You must expect maple to darken considerably with this treatment.
Tom
I have used watco and deft-oil on hardwood floors. Some think they are not tough enough for high use areas. I think they are in certain cases. One advantage of them is that they are easy finishes to repair and renew. Any finish will get damaged sooner or later.
I really doubt that watco would be a very good finish for wet area cabinets, even ones that only get washed occasionally. I like the color of watco though. Here's how I did my cabinets.
I refinished my kitchen two years ago - they still look like new, only a little dirty where they need some washing again, especially next to Sadie the dog's bowl. I refinished the cabinets and the drawer fronts since they are about 40 years old and part of THIS old house. I replaced the painted plywood doors with fir frame and panel doors with vertical grain fir plywood panels.
The first coat of finish was watco - heavy coat, then I waited about 20 minutes and wiped the excess off. Three days later, I sanded and put on 6 coats of minwax wipe on poly sanding between coats with first 220 and then 320. I finished with 0000 steel wool and burnished the finish with terry cloth.
By the way, I second Dark's recommendation to sand in the watco. The sawdust in the watco carrier is the perfect filler for small gaps, knicks, and other imperfections (who, ME??). That's why I wait for 3 days for the watco to dry before sanding and using the wipe on poly.
Also, watch the rags you use with watco. Firemen call shop fires "watco fires". I put watco rags right into the shop wood stove - if it's burning, goodbye rag! If not, I can't think of a better place for a small fire.
Edited 2/7/2004 11:43:34 PM ET by telemiketoo
brianmexico
Watco is one of my favorite finishes... But I won't use it on kitchen or bathroom projects. These areas have the potential to generate a lot of steam. Watco is not the best choice for water penetration (steam). It also contains a high content of linseed oil which will give off an amber glow.
I am not a poly fan, but it is IMO the best protectant for areas of potential water penetration. If I wanted to keep the maple a natural color, I would go water-based poly in that case as it doesn't have the linseed oil as oil-based poly that will most definitely give that amber tint.
Good luck...
sarge..jt
Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I'm a Watco fan also, especially when applied by wetsanding. Danish oils can "seep" alot when used on open-grained wood, and the wetsanding application virtually eliminates the problem. I do all the coats (including the first one) by wetsanding when finishing oak.
I understand people's concern about Watco in a wet or hot environment like a kitchen, but since it can be top-coated I'm not sure it's totally hopeless to use it in the kitchen. Main argument against it's use is probably that there are better alternatives that would carry less risk. If you do decide to use it, and top-coat it, it's essential that it has cured completely before finishing.
forestgirl Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Brian,
In the kitchen and bath it's a good idea to use as durable a finish as you can to avoid premature failure. Finishes like Watco are a blend of drying oil and varnish (aka, Danish Oil, Teak Oil, Velvit Oil, Antique Oil, Salad Bowl Finish). The added oil makes the finish less durable than straight varnish. In the article at this link - Selecting a Finish - there's a link to a chart that compares the durability of various finishes as well as a good discussion of each within the article. Of the non-"pro" finishes, polyurethane is rated highest followed by varnish. Water resistance is important for a kitchen or bath finish.
Many oil-base finishes are made with oil & resins that give them a strong yellow/amber color. Some are made with oils like safflower or soybean (soya) and are a lot less yellow/amber in color. One of these light colored varnishes would offer the protection you need as well as keeping the natural color of the wood closer. A couple brands of light colored varnish include McCloskeys Heirloom varnish or Pratt & Lambert #38. You can thin any oil-base varnish/polyurethane with mineral spirits and apply it like a Danish Oil; use low odor or odorless mineral spirits since they evaporate slower and give you more working time.
The finishes that are water-clear and non-yellowing that I know of are best applied with spray equipment. If you can spray, then you have a couple more options. You can use one of the good waterborne finishes (I like the finishes from Target Coatings) or you can use an acrylic lacquer. One of these finishes will keep the wood's natural color better than an oil-base finish.
Paul
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