Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Sep 12, 2005 02:58pm | #1

   Water dyes will not get into the pores of oak. I've tried a couple of drops of dish soap in the dye with no improvement. Alcohol dyes may work but I haven't tried them. I don't know if a couple of drops of glycerin will help. I like water soluble dyes but with oak, I think oil based stains are the way to go.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
2. 
   Sancho | Sep 12, 2005 04:40pm | #2

   w/b stains will streak if not put on evenly. but with a good w/b finish you can use a o/b stain let it dry thouroghly and apply a w/b finish.

      Buckism: Will show you the the way 
3. 
   ring | Sep 12, 2005 05:53pm | #3

   Mike,

   I have seen this happen as well, and therefore usually don't use water-base on oak.  However, I did have moderate success (not 100% but not bad) just by wetting it down first.  Brushed water over the surface, let it almost dry, then did the water-base stain.  The pre-wetting kind of opens it up.  But I'm sure that the right wetting additive would do the trick if you can find it.

   DR

4. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2005 07:19pm | #4

   Just me so try on some scrap..

   I get some of them 3M or something green Scotch Pads?

   Pore it on and make a slurry with whatever I am using.. I never bother to wipe it off.. Let it dry...

   Sand/scraper.. whatever is 'stickin' up.. May take a second coat..

   Alot of work but usually fills the grain.. I use RED OAK sometimes.. Cheeper!

   EDIT:: I forgot.. ALWAYS.. NEVER USE TAP water on Oak!
   Use distilled..

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/12/2005 12:21 pm ET by WillGeorge

5. 
   MikeHennessy | Sep 13, 2005 02:24pm | #5

   Thanks for your responses. As I suspected, no magic bullets. The solution I had found was to apply the dye by "scrubbing" it in with a 3M pad or "wet" sandpaper. A lot of work, but it leaves a silky-smooth finish. I would use oil (and in fact I was planning on a coat of clear Watco over this coat of dye to add some depth, followed by rub-on poly), but I like the color and evenness of this dye.

   Thanks again.

   Mike Hennessy

1. 
   DaveinPa | Sep 13, 2005 08:21pm | #6

   Heard of the same problem before and I believe it was solve by using a sanding sealer then sanding with 220 or 320 grit paper lightly.. then the wb stain followed by the topcoat. I always thought that sanding sealer was an oil base and wb stain will not soak in. Correct me if I am wrong.

6. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 14, 2005 04:14am | #7

   As the others have said this is a fairly common problem with oak since the insides of the pores are almost waxy.  There are at least two solutions. 

   You can follow the dye with a pigmented stain that will mostly lodge in the pores.   A sealing coat of dewaxed shellac will reduce the impact of the stain on the rest of the oak leaving the dye the primary colorant except in the pores.   

   Artiporin is a water mixed dye specifically formulated for woods with large pores.    Highland Hardware is the only source I know. 

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Sep 14, 2005 03:39pm | #8

   Thanks for the input, all. What I have decided to do is to wet sand with the dye as I am applying it using 220 paper. This not only gets dye down into the pores, but it pretty much eliminates the need for sanding the raised grain after the dye dries. So, tho' it's more work to apply the dye, it saves one subsequent step, so it all evens out. ;-)

   Mike Hennessy