Replies

1. 
   Sancho | Jan 25, 2006 10:07pm | #1

   no prob but you have make sure the stain is really dry. plus the stain  cant have any silicone in it oh yea you can use dewaxed shellac as a barrier coat to

   Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

   
   

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   Edited 1/25/2006 2:08 pm by Sancho

2. 
   SgianDubh | Jan 26, 2006 01:35am | #2

   Why crocusboy? Worried you might get a bunch of know-nothing amateurs spouting a load of old bollox, spinning a fine line in bull manure, and spreading baseless myths and folklore, ha, ha?

   You'll have to make up your own mind on my contribution but here it is for what it's worth.

   Water based polish products tend to be sensitive to less than ideal surface preparation and aren't partial to impurities such as wax and grease. An oil based colourant (dye or stain) could be considered a less than ideal base but if you give it enough time for the stuff to dry (1-3 days in my experience) then the water based polish will adhere satisfactorily. If you have any doubts then you can do as sancho suggested and put a coat of dewaxed shellac over the dye or stain which will create a barrier. Any film forming finish will adhere successfully to dewaxed shellac.

   Pre-cat lacquer is a member of the nitro-cellulose family of the finishes and is petroleum based. These finishing products are more tolerant of less than ideal surfaces than water based finishing products. I've found that it's possible to spray pre-cat over oil based stain successfully the day after staining. However, again, if you're unsure you could put a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac between the stain and the pre-cat if you like, although pre-cat will adhere successfully to regular shellac too.

   I can assure you that I have used both water based polishes and pre-cat lacquers over oil based stains, but I've never used either of  the brands Minwax Polycrylic nor the Fuhr pre-cat lacquer, so I'm giving generalised information that is relevant to the two types of topcoatings. Slainte.

   Richard Jones Furniture

   
   

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   Edited 1/25/2006 5:36 pm by SgianDubh

1. 
   Sancho | Jan 29, 2006 05:40am | #3

   You still back in that colony off ours...England :>) good to hear from ya again....Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   SgianDubh | Jan 30, 2006 11:44am | #4

   Yep, still here Sancho. Not much chance of me returning to live in the Mother country again (sic) as things are. If I do for some reason I'll definitely try and avoid the climatic hell-hole that is Gulf Coast Texas, ha, ha.

   Anyway, I know that crocusboy was asking about water based polishes, but at the same time he made mention of using pre-catalysed lacquer, which is not water based. I forgot to say anything about another sealer sometimes used as a barrier or seal coat and thought it might be useful to suggest it as an alternative to  shellac. Vinyl sealer, like shellac, is relatively tolerant of less than ideal surfaces, e.g., oiliness, etc..

   Vinyl sealer has its own problems in that it tends to be a little less clear than normal pre-cat lacqers and there's sometimes a hint of cloudiness or milkiness. Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture

2. 
   Crocusboy | Feb 16, 2006 01:55pm | #5

   Thanks for your insight.  I went ahead and did some experimenting with spraying both the pre-cat water-based lacquer as well as the Minwax water-based varathane over a few different brands of stain (Minwax, Flecto and some I purchased directly from a furniture manufacturer a number of years ago to match a buffet and hutch I was making to match a table and chair set we had purchased from them).  In all cases the topcoat appeared to bond well and came out looking good.

   Now that I've made the switch to water-based finishes, I'm wanting to learn more about learning how to apply it most effectively... so any recommendations along that vein would be appreciated.

   Again, thanks for your input.

   Marty

1. 
   DonStephan | Feb 16, 2006 09:04pm | #6

   An additional source of information for you would be the forums at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com

3. 
   loucarabasi | Feb 17, 2006 12:39pm | #7

   Marty, Try to use lacquer based stains (mlcambell). let dry 2-3 hours. then you can top coat with h20 finishes.

   By the way dont use Zar stains when top coating over oil based stains (it never dries, I mean never)

   Have been finishing for 20 yrs and I hate that stuff!!!!!

   Did I say I hate the stuff????

   -Lou