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Am somewhat new at woodworking, and find the joy of building, offset by the woes of finishing. I have tried water finish, and get more brush marks than I can sand out. I have tried this several times, and always go back to oil.because of the smooth finish. What am I doing wrong? Is it possible to put on water finish with out a bunch of brush marks? Also, am finishign an oak coffee table (recent WOOD project). Am brushing on several coats of Miniwax semi-gloss Urethane. What should I wet sand final coat with, then what do I polish out sanding marks with? Any help is appreciated
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Replies
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There is no clear cut answer to your problems. If you are trying to brush a water based finish using the techniques you learned for oil varnish -- you will have problems. And if you have problems with oil based finishes -- you may need to correct techniques a bit.
I have come to the conclusion that one of the most durable, good looking finishes is an oil based varnish like McCloskeys Hierloom varnish. If you thin it 50/50 with naphtha and wipe it on in thin coats you will be amazed at the quality finish you can get. No brush marks and because you wipe it on in thin coats, it dries without a dust problem. Scroll down to the Help with Oil/poly post for more info on this technique -- then go to Lee Grindinger's home page and look at the pics of pieces finished this way.
Jeff Jewitt
*Jeff's reply pretty well covers your question,however if you must use a water based urethaneI've found a gravity gun / sprayed finish workswell for me. Harlan
*TJ, I tell everybody I meet or greet with finishing fear to get their hands on Bob Flexner's book "Understanding Wood Finishing" (available in bookstores and Amazon.com) He covers the in's, out's, why's and how's of finishing in simple terms that even I can understand. Specific and detailed answers to your questions are in there. For the oak table, explore using a pore filler in your sequence. You will get a smooth finish in fewer coats for sure.Good luck.
*Where do you live? What temp and humidty in the shop?Water born finishes should flow out and leave no brush marks. I only use them in summer when temp is above 70. use in the shade so they do not dry to fast, humidity above 30% relative. Allow to dry between coats so no blush shows before recoating. If you use oil stain allow to dry at least one week before water based top coat. The only time I had brush marks was when it was over 95 with low humidity. Finish dried too fast to self level. It will run on vertical surfaces so I try to do all finishes on the level.
*Water borne finishes, from my experience are the worst products for woodworking to come down the pike in quite some time. Have fallen prey to the claims several times over the past ten years or so and even attempted a water finish on a piece for a good customer of mine. Lost an entire weekend removing it and preparing it for a decent finish. I feel these products are a sort of anti chemical political correctness. I was always taught water was woods worst enemy and in this case it's especially true.
*I've been using water based polyurethane for some time over water based aniline dyes, once over oil stain that was well cured. Never have had a problem with brush streaks, but that may be due to: a) I use semi-gloss and don't want a glossy sheen, and b) like one of the earlier respondents, I don't attempt to use it in very hot weather. I use at least 2 coats. One point that may be significant is that I always wet the wood thoroughly (with the stain or with water) and then sand it smooth. A lot of my work has been done on ash, which I find hac a nice grain and a satiny texture after this treatment, but definitely not glassy smooth.
*I do a fair amount of on-site finishing where waterborne finishes are the only option. I mostly use M L Campbell's Ultrastar in those situations, and it works quite well. I've used it in all temperatures from 50 degrees to 100 with the addition of some Flow Additive, and it's been trouble free. You can polish it pretty well, and non-professionals can't tell it from NC lacquer. It certainly looks better than Deft or any hardware store polyurethane.Instead of trying to brush it on, use a pad made for applying latex paint, or a foam brush, and add some flow additive suitable for the brand. My trainees do a perfect job first time out with a pad.Better yet -- get an HVLP conversion gun and learn to spray.Michael R.
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