I’m finally investing into some sharpening equipment, but I’ve always had this question in the back of my mind, perhaps someone can calm me down before I use any of it:
“Are you seriously telling me to put water on my expensive chisels?” 🙂
I have a table saw with a large cast iron top I bought used. I must have spent a week cleaning the rust off it. Now whenever a drop of liquid lands on the cast iron top – I almost freak out, because it takes literally just a few seconds for that drop to cause a stain.
Also the cheap chisels I use for cleaning off glue have some stains on them, even though I wipe them off reasonably quickly.
Is that less of an issue with good tool steels? Or is it that they’ll get repolished soon enough, so whatever little damage the water does will get removed?
I read in a sharpening book that there’s no such thing as completely stainless steel, and water causes corrosion even if you wipe it off because there are microscopic spaces in the steel where it will remain.
Thanks in advance for telling me I worry about nothing 🙂
Replies
I use my wet stones at least 4 feet away from any cast iron surface. Also, after sharpening I always put a light coat of oil on my chisels and plane irons. I use 3 in 1 oil. One of the most convenient ways to do this is the rag in a can method.
If you google: Paul Sellers rag in a can
You’ll find a video of Paul explaining it.
It’s not only used after sharpening. I use it immediately after wiping glue off my chisel and I use it on my steel square after checking a glue-up for square.
Cast iron is different than tool steel. But, as stated above, after I use my waterstones on my edge tools I give them a light spray of WD-40 and wipe them with a rag. My 30 year old Marples boxwood handle chisels still look brand new.
I immediately wipe off with WD40 after water stones, then coat with Jotoba or Camellia oil.
Not had a corrosion issue yet.
How/where you store your hand tools is much more important.
I use the rag in the can on every metal surface in the shop. I use it with Camellia oil and it really makes a difference. Plane soles, jointer, table saw, band saw and planer tables all get a coating and it makes life so much easier. The wood glides across the tables and the Camellia oil does not affect any finish that I have used so far.
Water, soapy water, a bit of light machine oil, you bet. A sink well away from your cast iron or a 'stone pond' are both good ways to keep your wet work isolated from things that won't care for it. I have semi-imaginary boundaries for wood, metal, finishing and water in my shop. It is one big room but, for example, metal filings NEVER get to go "over there."
I have a 1lb coffee can with a well-washed shop towel in it. I have been adding a few drops of light machine oil to it every half a dozen uses or so. It sets in my plane till and tools get a wipe down before they are put away; just a film, not slimy. Water, like fire, is a valuable tool with a destructive nature when it brushes up against the wrong thing.
Woobie.
The use of water stones does not cause any appreciable rust if you simply dry the blades when finished (paper towels work fine).
The much bigger issue is humidity because it is in contact with the steel 24/7/365. A light coating of oil (camellia oil works great) is a necessity in all but the most arid of environments.
Rust never sleeps. But the amount of rust caused by sharpening with water stones is minuscule compared to that caused by water floating around unseen.
Thanks everyone!
Has anyone tried to make the oil-in-a-can with a lid? Does it dry out or get messed up from dust in the shop?
Mine has never dried out but I do need to replenish the oil once or twice a year as it gets used up.
If dust becomes a problem, you could always invert a larger can overtop.
I'm surprised that no one has recommended non-silicone Johnson Paste Wax as a regular addition to anything cast iron. It will prevent that drop of water from staining that cast iron tablesaw top.
I too use Camelia as a final coat on my 30 year old Marples chisels and all other woodworking tools.
I learned the hard way: I moved from South California to Charleston SC and could not get my shop set up for a year. Still working on rust removal from clamps which never required any oil before the move.
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