I have just finished two outdoor Chaise Lounges of red oak , and am in a quandry as to the best rain protection, A good water seal, lynseed oil or a good varnish. In the winter we have a normal rain fall, & in the summer we often times have a humidity as low as 10 % This is in N. California along side the Sacramento River.
Richard
Replies
R IV
linseed oil provides no water protection. I would use a deck sealer myself.
You are starting off with a problem as red oak is a very poor outdoor wood. Its pores absorb moisture and the wood quickly deteriorates. Your best bet is to paint it as paint is the most protective and the longest lasting.
No clear finish will last very long outdoors. Consumer Union has an on-going test of outdoor deck finishes an no clear finish lasted a year. Some semi-transparent stains lasted for 2-3 years and exterior paints lasted 5-8 years.
Avoid any urethane or polyurethane finish. Urethane is not good in sunlight. The UV rapidly causes it to deteriorate causing the finish to fail and let water and watervapor through. This further causes the finish to lose adherence.
Consider a product called Cetol Marine Natural Teak. It's got enough pigment in it so that it protects reasonably well, but is clear enough to let the wood show through (sort of). It's made for teak, but I see no reason it wouldn't work on oak. Some people (including me) think it's a little too orange, but it sure beats having the wood get grey or peeling varnish. PS, rain isn't the enemy here, the sun is. If you really want them to stay nice, make or buy a cover for when they're not being used. Also, add a piece of pressure treated lumber under the parts that contact the ground so rot doesn't have a place to start.
I've got to agree with Howie on this one. The red oak is an open-grain hardwood. It does not have the tyloses that white oak does that make it so good as an exterior wood.
Any product that says "marine grade" on the can would be what I would try. And I think I might soak any end grain pieces in it for a while to let it wick into the wood. If you don't, then the water surely will wick into it and rot it from the inside out.
Good luck
Marine grade on the label may not be enough if you have to have a clear finish. Without getting into high end two-part finishes at about $80 for the first quart, there are only a few truely marine grade spar varnishes. These are Interlux Schooner, Pettit Captain's and Epifanes Clear Gloss. Even these finishes require a committment to regular maintenance--including a fresh coat about every year or at the most two. And, you must fully follow the directions which call for at least six coats of brushed on finish, with scuff sanding between each.
It's much more practical to go with an opaque stain or paint. This is especially true with red oak which is likely to rot in a heartbeat. Be sure with red oak to carefully coat all end grain, particularly in ground contact, with as much epoxy as it will aborb. Red oak can aborb water and begin to rot from the inside out.
Thank you Steve. Your knowledge is awsome, Thank goodness I dont have to do the finishing as well as the building in this case!
Richard the fourth
Thank you,but- Too Late doorboy, both Chaises are done, however I was promised that they would be painted by the company painter & Covereed with a quality cover
Richard the fourth
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled