Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 29, 2006 10:40pm | #1

   You won't have a problem IF you let the oil based stain fully cure.  Use the standard sniff test--if you can still smell the finish it's not fully cured.  This is probably too conservative in most cases, but unless there is a pressing need for speed, better to wait a little longer. 

2. 
   Kleck | Apr 30, 2006 02:19am | #2

   Wait 2 days for the oil stain to dry well.

   I'll wait one day and check the oil based stain using a hair drier on it, close up. If the oil is still slightly wet, it'll ooze up from the pores. Just to be sure, I wipe a white cloth over it after heating it. If the cloth comes away TOTALLY clean, I'm good to go.

   You could also use a barrier coat of DEWAXED shellac, but it isn't necessary if the oil is thoroughly dry.

   Dave

1. 
   Ximro_ne | May 01, 2006 05:33am | #3

   Thanks. This helps. I am currently planning on water dyeing my maple with Transtint Dark Vintage Maple with a touch of red and blue in it, then General Finishes Gel Stain cut 50% with boiled linseed oil, and then topcoating with as clear a finish as possible. This gets me close to the color of our kitchen cabinets.

1. 
   Kleck | May 01, 2006 02:15pm | #4

   Cool. I'm a big fan of WB dyes. I follow the darker ones up with an application of glaze if there are any light pores remaining. I've tried a bit of detergent to reduce surface tension, and spraying, but there's always a noticeable absence of dye in some oak's pores, so I've found it essential to add that extra step of glazing.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 01, 2006 02:47pm | #5

   There may be another solution as well.  Highland Hardware carries a product called Artiporin that is a water mixed dye designed specifically to address the problem of dye not penetrating the inner walls of pores in woods like oak.  You migh check that out. 

1. 
   AndyCharron1 | May 01, 2006 06:47pm | #6

   Steve, I'm curious, do you have any idea what is in the antiporin that helps it color open pored wood? This is the first I've heard of the product, but if it works, it sounds like a great idea.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | May 02, 2006 04:09am | #7

   I'm afraid I don't, nor does the manufacturer web page help much either.  It is made by Becker Acroma, which is a Swedish based paint company, with worldwide operations.  Since I almost never use oak, I haven't used it myself, though George Frank mentions Arti as his German supplier of dyes he believed were superior to American dyes (at least in 1988 when his book Wood Finishing with George Frank was pulblished.)  

3. 
   AndyCharron1 | May 02, 2006 07:56pm | #8

   Thanks for going to the trouble of checking their web site. I guess I could have done that too! I suspect there is some kind of additive that lowers the surface tension of the dye so it can flow into the pores better. Maybe some kind of flow additive or wetting agent? At any rate, I'll probably never have a reason to try the stuff as I avoid working with red oak like the plague. By the way, the name of this stuff sounds like some kind of heart (or maybe acne) medication.Thanks again,Andy