Replies

1. 
   Rennie | Jun 01, 2006 04:00pm | #1

   I recently moved away from poly and, wanting to try something 'better' purchased some Waterlox, both clear and satin. I ran into trouble brushing (brush marks, etc.) but otherwise found it gave good results. In an effort to avoid brush marks I thinned it 50% and used it as a wipe on. Worked OK, but too many applications and too long to finish. So, I wrote the company and asked if it could be sprayed (no mention of this on the can). The answer was yes, so my next project was done with my HVLP. Excellent results! Very little sag or run, very good coverage, very forgiving of my lack of skill in spraying. I have a 4 stage sprayer so I was able to spray with minimal thinning.

   I'll continue to use Waterlox where it makes sense, and I might experiment with some others. There is a place for poly on my shelf, but, unless the specific properties of the poly are needed, I'll stay with the resin varnishes for color, clarity, and exceptional finish.

   The attached files show Lyptus with a sprayed Waterlox finish - 2 coats of clear with a top coat of satin over a seal coat of dewaxed shellac.

   Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral.
   Frank Lloyd Wright

   
1. 
   John_D | Jun 01, 2006 08:12pm | #5

   As a person who was married on 6/6 at 6 pm, I love the fact that the picture that shows your piece in a church, the filename is 666. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

1. 
   Rennie | Jun 01, 2006 08:56pm | #7

   John,

   I had not noticed! Good catch. Perhaps I should rename that file....  ;o)Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright

2. 
   BG | Jun 01, 2006 05:30pm | #2

   Cirept,
   Waterlox was the first stuff I ever used. Being a total novice I assumed a hand rubbed finish meant applying it by hand so that is what I did. Pouring a bit in my hand and rubbed on the coffee table(Ash, 24x48)...kept spreading to a thin coat and it was getting tacky. When dry I scraped lightly with a scraper and applied another coat(6 coats in total). It's probably the best finsh I've done...comparing very favorably to a Watco finish and a hell-of-a lot more durable.

   I have not bought it for a while because I like making up my own and it saves me money.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/1/2006 10:35 am ET by BG

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 01, 2006 07:24pm | #3

   What "Waterlox" are you referring to?  Waterlox is a brand name of a family of products.  They range from their phenolic resin/tung oil products like their Original Sealer/Finish, or their Original Gloss and Satin to their Urethane/tung oil Gloss and Satin.  They also make some marine finishes.

   Each is a different finish and has differing characteristics.

   Howie.........
1. 
   Cirept | Jun 01, 2006 07:43pm | #4

   Yes I meant to add to original post.  I'm looking at Original Sealer/Finish.  How much build does it have and how clear is it?

   Thanks

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 01, 2006 08:44pm | #6

   The original/sealer shouldn't need much thinning, if it needs any, to be used as a wipe-on finish.  It is clear, though does have an amber tone like most oil based varnishes. It usually takes about half a dozen coats to give a nice solid coating, add a few more if you are mostly interested in protection.  It should end up as a mellow gloss.  I usually find that about 3 or 4 coats of wipe on finish is equivalent to a coat of 50% solids brush on varnish.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 02, 2006 09:59pm | #9

   The Sealer/Finish is a rather soft finish.  It contain additional oil to cause it to be thinner and to more readily penetrate into wood.  It also makes is a good wipe-on finish.  However, the softness makes it a less desirable finish if you want to rub it out.  It's best, I have found, to not make the attempt.  If  you apply the final coat carefully, you will end up with as glossy a finish as if you attempt to rub it out. 

   How much you apply depends on what you want to accomplish with the finish.  The more natural looking and feeling you want to the wood, the less you apply.  If you want a more protective finish, then apply more coats.  You have to make those choices yourself.  Howie.........

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 03, 2006 04:25am | #10

   Howie,

   I'm sure you mean to say Waterlox is a relatively long oil varnish and are not suggesting it is an oil/varnish mix.   I suspect that any softness is not from added oil--as in long oil varnish, but the result of  incorporation of ester gum resin (rosin based) .  The primary resin--phenolic is generally harder than alkyd.   But I have never seen any real data on the hardness of Waterlox. It's certainly not soft like an oil/varnish mix that is mistakenly allowed to build on a surface.   

4. 
   zombeerose | Jun 02, 2006 07:53pm | #8

   I used Waterlox Original on the coffee table I built. I believe it took 6 coats applied with a rag to get the level I wanted. It does add an amber tint. It is not the fastest type of finish, esp. since it is best to let it cure for about a month before rubbing it out, but I will be using it a lot in the future (if I don't make my own instead).

   BTW, make sure you remove any air from the can before storing it b/c it will develop a top film quickly.

   "100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/2/2006 12:55 pm by zombeerose