Hi, I have thinned it and used it on a table . Looks good, very tough, but look out if you rub thru 1 coat, you need to do a bunch more coats to hide the hole you created. Now I am doing a corner hutch, will not see as much use, lots of nooks , moldings ect. It is cherry, planning on water based dye and ?? as a finish. Should I be afraid of shelac? will the waterlox be a mistake? Thanks to all, Dave
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Dave,
I'm not sure I understand the question, but the waterlox did remove some of the water based dye I was using. Came out slightly lighter and less red...hope that helps
Shellac produces a nice finish that can be polished to a high gloss. Very nice on flat surfaces (table tops, etc.) that benefit from this look.
Shellac dries very fast and can be difficult to apply - especially with your description of "nooks, moldings,etc.." Applied by brush, you may find it easier to use in these areas - though it still takes some practice. Spraying shellac in these situations is a lot easier.
For overall ease of application and an attractive finish, varnish is a good choice (especially if you're using a wipe-on technique).
If you apply varnish using the wipe-on method, apply one coat and let it dry to the touch. Sand very LIGHTLY with 320 grit paper to reduce dust nibs only and apply the second coat. Repeat until you have applied four coats - let it dry overnight. These first four coats are applied in a matter of hours - each new coat is added just as soon as the previous coat feels dry.
After the first four coats dries overnight, sand the finish smooth, removing the sheen from the surface, using 400 or 600 grit. Since the piece doesn't need a lot of protection, apply one last coat of the wipe-on varnish and let dry.
Paul
F'burg, VA
Basically Waterlox is a thinned varnish. They add lots of thinner to make it flow out better but the amount of thinner also means you get a thinner film when you apply it. To get a film thickness comparable to a full strength varnish brushed on, you would need to apply two coats. Because it is so thin, sand through is a good possibility if you are not careful. Also, like with any varnish, each coat goes on as a separate layer. This means that even if you put on many coats, you still run the risk of sand through of the final coat.
You can’t beat shellac as a finish, except that it is not very scratch or alcohol resistant. It has far better water resistance than it is given credit for, as long as it is fresh. I have applied shellac to some very complicated pieces with no problems in the difficult areas. I use a very thin mixture of shellac, which is nearly as thin as water. This would seem like, it would take forever to build, but since it dries so quickly, you can apply many coats in one day. On a larger piece ( like a medium size table) I can usually apply 2-3 coats one right after another, as long as I follow the same application pattern. After that I let it sit for 2-3 hours and this time do 2 coats. After drying over night I apply 2-3 more coats, and let it sit for a week and the rub it out. I have used wipe on varnish, but it lacks the depth of brushed on varnish, and is no more durable( against scratches) than shellac. Also, I have found it nearly impossible to obtain an even sheen with rubbed on varnish, in hard to reach places.
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