I have had good results in the past when using Waterlox but it’s always been on small projects. Now, I am considering applying it to a coffee table that will receive a lot of use. Being a tung/varnish mix, will this be an adequate finish if enough coats are applied (I was thinking 5 to 7)?
Thanks!
Replies
Which Waterlox are you thinking about using? They make a number of different products. "Waterlox" is the brand name. Their non-poly varnishes are made with a phenolic resin and a tung oil instead of a linseed oil. non the less, they are varnishes not tung oil. They are as protective as any varnish.
Also, why so many coats? 3-4 is more than adequate for a varnish. That will give you maximum water and watervapor protection. As for scratches, they occur in the first millimeter or two so lots of coats offers not additional protect. More coats will just drag out the time required for the coating to fully cure.
Waterlox is varnish, but it is thinned varnish--26% solids content. Many people use it as is for wiping. Wiped on it takes a lot more than three or four coats for good moisture protection. Even brushed on, about 4 to 5 coats would be needed to be equivalent to 3 coats of "full strength" varnish. For comparison purposes, Pratt & Lambert 38 has 41% solids, and Behlen's Rockhard has about 53% solids.
You read my mind - I will be wiping :)
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
>> Waterlox is varnish, but it is thinned varnish--26% solids content
As I mentioned in a prior posting, "Waterlox" is a brand name, not a product. You are referring, I believe to their Original Sealer/Finish which is indeed a thinned varnish that can be either wiped or brushed. However, their Original Gloss (formally Gym Floor Finish) contains about 40% solids as I recall.
Sure, a thinned finish will require more coats to get the equivilent film thickness of a full strength finish. But, I was not aware that the finish that would be used was the "Sealer/Finish". My mistake. Sorry.
But, that does not change my points about film thickness. Five to six or more coats of a varnish is excessive and does little more than enrich the finish manufacturer, IMO and experience.Howie.........
I will be using Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish, which is a combo of tung and varnish. As for the # of coats, I will be wiping it on and therefore each application will not be nearly as heavy as compared to brushed or sprayed. Thanks for the feedback.
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
>> Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish, which is a combo of tung and varnish.
Not so. As Steve has said, Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish is a thinned wiping varnish. The only difference is that that Waterlox makes their varnish using tung oil instead of linseed oil. Varnish is a mixture of resin and oil that is heated to change it into a varnish. Then tung oil is no longer tung oil.Howie.........
Ah so. I did not realize that the varnish was essentially the product of the tung oil. I was under the impression they were combined. Thx for the info.
"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
zonbeeose,
I built two ash coffee tables for the family room (read: the slobs but their shoes on the edge of the top..sigh) I put 3 coats of Waterlox orginal all over and six coats on the top..put on with my bare hands...shoulda worn a respirator, got hard on my throat. Anyhow, came out beautiful and they have not been able to hurt it.
One note of caution, if you stain make sure its dry before the Waterlox...the finish will remove the stain if not....damhikt...
Thx for the reply. No stain for me :) And always protect your lungs.BTW, I couldn't find your post. You have a link?"100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"
Edited 11/15/2005 10:36 am by zombeerose
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