Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | May 21, 2024 04:42am | #1

   My guess is they're pretty comparable as far as scratch and water resistance. I'd probably opt for the one I like the looks of. But really, make two sample boards. Which one looks better? Then test them for hardness and wear.

   I'd never try a new finish without doing a sample.

1. 
   jpe52 | May 21, 2024 11:21am | #2

   Thanks, John. I've used both on various cherry pieces and find them
   both excellent from a visual and tactile perspective. I'm leaning toward
   the Becksvoort mix owing to it's less obnoxious fumes, but wanted to wait to hear if someone has experience on the water/scratch resistance of each.

2. 
   chancito | May 21, 2024 12:51pm | #3

   I’ve used Becksvoort’s on a cherry settee and after 18 months there is some scratching on the armrests. No water marks. I don’t have experience with waterlox. Wanted to add a photo but too tech limited to reduce the file size to the allowed limit, sorry.

   
3. 
   user-7274013 | May 21, 2024 01:45pm | #4

   I have used Chris Becksvoort finish and love it but I mix tried and true with spar varnish which gives me better protection from water. The big benefit is this finish is very easy to repair. If water protection is your main concern just go with polyurethane. Check out issue #206 Chris talks what he blends with tried and true.
   Good luck with the project.

1. 
   jpe52 | May 22, 2024 12:57am | #9

   Thanks! Actually, I do mix the T&T with spar varnish, as Becksvoort
   recommends.

   I'm curious about your comment that it is easy to repair. Can you
   elaborate? Thanks again..

1. 
   user-7274013 | May 22, 2024 12:06pm | #12

   Hi, All I did was take some 0000 steel wool and rub out the scratch then wipe on some more finish. If that won’t get the scratch out use some sandpaper, I would start with some higher grit until the scratch is removed.
   Or doing nothing and let the scratch be part of the furniture history.

   Good luck

4. 
   elmaduro | May 21, 2024 06:28pm | #5

   Just an idea— I recently did cherry test boards with T&T and Osmo. Both finished the same but I think the Osmo provides more protection. Haven’t yet to finish an entire cherry piece in Osmo though ..

5. 
   stantheman | May 21, 2024 06:49pm | #6

   Waterlox is a thinned varnish, not an oil. Its original use was for gym floors.

1. 
   gulfstar | May 21, 2024 09:49pm | #7

   According to the msds, it is made mostly of mineral spirits (50 to 90%) then according to their advertisement : tung oil, ester gum, phenolic resin, linseed oil. So it’s a close relative to danish oil but with a strong emphasis on solvent.

2. 
   Botch | May 21, 2024 10:59pm | #8

   Wow, that's interesting; from it's name I'd always considered it a water-based finish. d'Oh!

1. 
   stantheman | May 22, 2024 09:55am | #11

   Any varnish is made by heating at high temperature, an oil with a resin. So you can use tung oil or other oils to make the varnish component, and still say it has tung oil as an ingredient. But it no longer has the properties of an oil finish. And just so that danish oil is not really an oil either.

1. 
   john_c2 | May 23, 2024 11:11am | #13

   What Stan said.

2. 
   gulfstar | May 23, 2024 08:11pm | #14

   Linseed oils are mostly boiled, and considered oil.

6. 
   CharlieFurnituremaker | May 22, 2024 05:30am | #10

   Scratches will occur in any finish that forms a film on the surface of wood. The "tougher" the finish the whiter and uglier the scratches. Think spiral bound notebook on office conference room table kind of ugly.