Replies

1. 
   BarryO | Nov 06, 2004 09:59pm | #1

   Most finishes are non-toxic once fully cured.

   As to which will stand up to continous water contact, 'don't have any experience that would allow me to speak authoritatively.  I would guess the marine products would work(?)

1. 
   BarryR | Nov 06, 2004 10:20pm | #2

   I think poly will work as long as it remains intact.  If it's scratched or worn water will get under it & eventually lift the film.  I think I would use epoxy.

2. 
   JohnWW | Nov 06, 2004 10:38pm | #3

   Jim,

   Only a marine two part epoxy will form as waterproof a finish as you need, none of the conventional finishes are meant for continuous immersion. 

   While they are commonly used, these epoxies are not the easiest materials to work with and prior to curing are moderately toxic.  They are also not cheap.  You might want to consider a conventional finish and a note that the vessels are not to be used with water or else turn the vases to a size where a glass or metal liner could be inserted in them 

   John W.

3. 
   cleve | Nov 06, 2004 10:58pm | #4

   Sounds like a good place for one of the "Sealoflex" or "Hydrostop" waterproofing products. They are inexpensive and extremely durable vinyl waterproofers that go on like a thick paint  and can be tinted to any color. I know from experience that they both offer great customer support and either manufacturer would be glad to help you and tell you which of their products would be best.

    

    

    

   cleve

    

    

   Jim:

    

   It still sounds like "Sealoflex"  is your answer. It can be sprayed, poured or brushed, or reinforced with nylon of polyester fiber fabric to take on different shapes. It bonds tenaciously to porous materials and is used for roofs and tank linings. You could try masking then pouring some inside the vessel then pouring off the excess. Two or three coats should protect your work. I use it all the time. Check out their websight.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/7/2004 6:21 am ET by cleve

4. 
   SawdustSteve | Nov 07, 2004 04:00am | #5

   Jim I don't know what size these vases are, but how about making the internal hole the size of a 'standard' glass container. This will ALMOST assure you of a waterproof internal surface. I've seen wooden 'bud vases' made with a standard laboratory test tube in the central hole. Test tubes come in many different diameters and lengths. Your only job would be to find a source of them. Try checking with the Science Department at your local High School. They should have several different catalogs that list them. How about the plastic Cigar Tubes that the better cigars come in??

   SawdustSteve

1. 
   jnh2 | Nov 07, 2004 07:48pm | #7

   Thanks for the good insight from everyone. 

   My first thought was the non-toxic, waterproof finish, and my second and third were to find some prefab container to fit the turning and adapt the segmental glue-up to "capture" the container.

   At this point I'm thinking of trying both approaches - no, I'm not one of these purests that try to build sinks and bathtubs out of wood.  Since I know the planning and cutting and glue-up will be the greatest portion of time, and I don't have any "suitable" container ready at hand, I'm trying to allow for my overly optimistic view of how fast the entire process will go.  It looks like the production will be something more than 8 and less than a dozen, all roughly 10 inches high, so that's a big whacking bunch of segments to get decided on and cut before the glueing starts.

   Thanks again for everyone's helps and good thoughts.

   truly,  Jim in Saint Louis

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 07, 2004 07:20am | #6

   Short of encapsulating the insides with a thick epoxy coating, nothing will permanently exclude water.  Two coats of polyurethane finish will only exclude water and water vapor penetration for less than a few days. 

   For wooden vases, I would tell the recipients only to use them for artificial flowers.

   Howie.........