Replies

1. 
   Sean2112 | Dec 28, 2007 05:04am | #1

   Go online and get a real stone. Oil and water don't mix.

1. 
   PeteToo | Dec 28, 2007 06:08am | #2

   Gee Sean, really?

   And what is a "real" stone?  Is it Arkansas?  Japanese?   Diamond?  A whetstone?  Natural?  Artificial?  Water?  Oil?  What?   How's about fine emery on glass?  Or even emery cloth on MDF?

   I wouldn't mind if one of you experts from this forum would put some thought into an answer and truly help a guy who obviously needs it.

   Respectfully,   Pete

1. 
   EdHarrison | Dec 28, 2007 06:24am | #3

   The Norton Wide Oilstones are great. http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com One of the truly useful things I have learned on this forum is the idea of using a diamond plate to dress the stone each time before use. The Norton wide oil stones come in a plastic container which is fine but you will probably want to eventually make your own wooden boxes, eventually. (The plastic warps a little bit over time). The stones will last a lifetime. Good luck, Ed

1. 
   PeteToo | Dec 28, 2007 06:35am | #4

   Thanks Ed,

   That's a very helpful reply.  Now I hope Roofy reads it.

   I use various fine grades of sandpaper and emery cloth on top of a half inch thick slab of float glass - and touch-up with diamond as you said. 

   (Oh.  I originally bought the glass to use to flatten and true-up my plane soles.  It made a huge difference in how well the planes worked.)

   Pete

    

2. 
   DonC | Dec 28, 2007 07:17am | #5

   On a new oil stone I use water instead of oil. Norton has also written that this is ok to do. Oil reduces friction, water does not. The purpose/function of a fluid is to keep metal particles in suspension and not letting them get imbedded in the stone. Water allows faster cutting.

   Using water on an oil stone that has already been used with oil will not work.

1. 
   andyfew322 | Jan 17, 2008 07:21am | #15

   so you are saying that as long as the stone is brand new and is sold as an oil stone, you can use it with water, just don't mix? 

   "I'd rather be a hammer than a nail"

2. 
   DonC | Jan 22, 2008 08:35pm | #16

   I'm not really sure Andy. Maybe you could soak and scrub the already used oil stone with soap/shampoo and water and/or acetone to get rid of residual oil and then switch to water. Shampoo cuts oil better than soap. I just bought a new Norton and started with water. I still have my old oil stones but I never sue them anymore.

2. 
   lwilliams | Dec 28, 2007 07:27am | #6

   "...put some thought into an answer and truly help a guy who obviously needs it."

   Pete,

   I'm sure a lot of people would like to help. I'm not sure what Austrian RAPPOLD sharpening stones are. I don't know what is available in Cyprus and don't know who ships there. I don't even know if the stones I would suggest are available there. It's pretty hard to "truly help" when so much information isn't known.

3. 
   Sean2112 | Dec 29, 2007 02:10am | #12

   Pete-

   Seems as though you have a bit of knowledge you weren't too eager to share. Feel free to enlighten Roofy and get off my back about it. Sean

4. 
   user-85737 | Feb 03, 2008 04:41am | #25

   ceramic

2. 
   philip | Dec 28, 2007 08:42am | #7

   "Anyways how do you tell the difference of an oilstone from a waterstone?."
   Usually waterstones are much smoother and if you use oil on them they will not cut, and they may also clog up.I would guess that the sales person is telling you to use oil on the rougher of the two sides?
   I have in the past acquired stones and been unable to detect if either water or oil had been used- solved the problem by using Kerosene without any ill effect . I use kerosene on my Kingstone-no problem.I do have a sneaking suspicion that kerosene may have a bad effect on some artificial wet stones -but have yet to experience this problem.
   But this is an unusual combination stone-any chance of a picture?

   Philip Marcou
1. 
   roofy | Dec 28, 2007 06:45pm | #8

   Thanks for all the replies ppl. I ll try and use it as a waterstone and we ll see what happens... :D. One problem though, dont know the grit sizes?

   Anyhow, i ll order a couple of stones from leevaley instead

   I ve taken 2 pics for you philip, hope that helps :D

   
1. 
   jeffreysherow | Dec 28, 2007 08:05pm | #10

   why go rush and order more stones? Try these out with water and see how they work, who knows, you might find out they are very good. A good edge is got much more to do with technique than how much you spent on stones and fancy equipment. Some of the most accomplished woodworkers don't use fancy jigs and/or expensive equipment.

2. 
   philip | Dec 28, 2007 11:12pm | #11

   Thanks Roofy- don't spurn that stone until you have tried it with water , oil or kerosene: Austrian tools and machines have a good reputation.Philip Marcou

3. 
   stpatrick | Dec 29, 2007 05:49am | #13

   Roofy, here is a link to their website. I have not reviewed it, but it may be informative.

   http://www.rappold-winterthur.com/en/products/overview.php

1. 
   roofy | Jan 07, 2008 05:57pm | #14

   Got a reply from them using the online form

   Its a combination oilstone afterall :D

3. 
   frenchy | Dec 28, 2007 07:01pm | #9

   roofy,

     may I suggest you do a search for the scary sharp method of sharpening?  basically it's sandpaper and a piece of glass.. when Fine wood working did a review of each sharpening methods out there it came out better than all but a rare exception..

    I have an expensive Tormek sharpening system that I have nearly a thousand dollars invested in.. It's dragged out rarely. most of my sharpening is with the scary sharp method..

    

4. 
   blewcrowe | Jan 23, 2008 12:08am | #17

   I now use a machine to sharpen (Veritas) but prior to that, after using all the systems, I decided I was ultimately happiest with diamond plates.

1. 
   danmart | Feb 01, 2008 03:08am | #20

   BC

   If they only knew how easy and fast it was to use diamond paste... good stuff.

   I use the diamond plates with the circles. I put the paste on a piece of flat wood and .. there it is super sharp.

   Scary Sharp: a good way to go. No doubt. Its cheap and it works great.

   Oil stones: they are great.. especially if your water stones are frozen in the tub or maybe you just haven't gotten around to flattening them again.. next time?

   Waterstones: they ain't cheap if you want good ones. They work very well.

   Often ignored: Buffing wheel and compounds. I love my wheel for carving. I just hit the tool with a little compound, 10 seconds and back to the feature. No lapse in carving concentration. That is important to me. I know its not widely used in the States but.. every time I watched the Germans and French carve, there was a buffing wheel in the background. I like it. Others don't care for it. "It rounds over the edge" is their view.

   Photo: Does that look rounded over?

   later

   Edited 2/1/2008 9:58 am ET by danmart

   
1. 
   blewcrowe | Feb 01, 2008 03:27pm | #21

   Whoa! Is that a gunstock?

1. 
   danmart | Feb 01, 2008 06:02pm | #22

   That's a Kentucky cheek piece. One of the few lefties built by a right hander.

   I have only built 4 or 5 over the years and I must say I have to continually re-think my way around areas I work mindlessly.

   Its kind of like asking my to cut the dovetails first. I can do it but I feel funny as I'm working.

   Sharpening: Sandpaper and buffing wheels for the carving tools.

1. 
   joinerswork | Feb 02, 2008 04:37am | #23

   dan,

   Aw, He11! Tell them lefties to learn to shoot a right handed flintlock ;-))

   Ray a southpaw, who fortunately, is right eye- dominant

5. 
   cowtown | Jan 30, 2008 10:27am | #18

   I cannot believe that someone didn't point you to scarey-sharp sites.

   like this note...

   http://www.windsorchairresources.com/tips/sharp.html

   It is not only highly effective, but it is also cheaper. Moreover it is easily transportable and highly recommended for site work.

1. 
   prbayliss | Feb 02, 2008 06:32am | #24

   I question that in the long run scary sharp is cheaper, however I too have had good results using this method. I also question that carrying a chunk of plate glass to the job site is that much more convenient than carrying a combination stone (water or oil).I personally find waterstones messy and the courser grits get dished quickly. So, I've moved to using Medium India and Hard Arkansas oilstones, followed, if needed by a pass on a Norton 8000 grit waterstone.For flattening the back of molding plane blades I use 40 micron silicon carbide paper on a sheet of 1/4" glass as it makes pretty quick work. The paper wears pretty quick and it ain't cheap either, but it definitely does the job.Best regards,
   Paul

6. 
   vincentedwards | Jan 31, 2008 05:54pm | #19

   My personal favorite stones are Norton waterstones, 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit.
   http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com carries them if you are interested.

   These cut really fast and work on all types of steel, even HSS. They are really good for modern alloys like A2 and D2. They don't wear as fast as traditional waterstones either.

   They do need to be flattened sometimes with 180 wet-dry sandpaper on a FLAT surface.

   It's difficult for me to use oilstones after getting used to these, because it takes SO much longer to sharpen. Also, I get a much finer polish (sharper edge)

   If I were to supplement these with anything, it would be a DMT diasharp coarse diamond stone for the real heavy reshaping tasks. Waterstones suck for this because they don't stay flat long enough... diamond stones stay flat forever. The last thing you want is to reshape a blade only to find that it's curved when you move to your next stone.

   just my two cents-

   Vincent