Replies

1. 
   Midnight | Jan 04, 2005 02:26am | #1

   If it makes things any easier, your 4000 grit stone shouldn't be stored wet neither. Lee Valley sell a good stone pond c/w piece of plate glass and a tub of carbide grit for re-flattening the course stones...

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=33027&category=1,43072,43071&abspage=1&ccurrency=1&SID=

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   dalfollo | Jan 04, 2005 02:49am | #2

   Thanks for the info on the 4K...can you tell i haven' even picked them up yet? That link does give me some ideas....any suggestions on the wood to use? Teak, cyprus?

1. 
   georgek | Jan 04, 2005 03:58am | #3

   I remember seeing what you're looking to build on the Wainwright show on PBS and they used white oak. The joinery was stopped dadoes and a tight fitting bottom.

   Good luck.

2. 
   Peter36 | Jan 04, 2005 01:27pm | #4

   Frank Klausz uses a wood box made out of pine to store his. I have a magazine article on how he builds it that I will dig up tomorrow and I will let you know. By the way, how do you flatten your stones?

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/4/2005 11:40 am ET by Peter36

1. 
   dalfollo | Jan 04, 2005 09:13pm | #5

   Thanks, I look forward to seeing what you find.

   Right now my stones are in the warehouse....but to flatten the stones there are several different methods...i am leaning toward using my scarey sharp sandpaper on glass to flatten the 220 stone then use the flat 220 stone to flatten the 1k...the 1k on the 4k, and the 4k on the 8k....

   I have read and seen where people really like using a DMT diamond plate, but i just don't have the $$ for that right now...dalfollowww.dalfollo-daley.com

1. 
   Peter36 | Jan 04, 2005 10:13pm | #6

   Well naturally I could not find it but I do remember how he did it - I think. All he used was white pine. The 4 corners he cut on a tablesaw making a interlocking F joint on each corner. You can buy router bits to do the same thing at Lee Valley. The bottom was simply a piece of pine that butted in to all 4 sides. The interesting thing that he did was to straighten out a 1 gallon paint can handle wire, and hammer it in to the grain all the way around the bottom piece. It would look like you routed a groove centered on the thickness of the bottom piece all around 4 sides. After doing this he planned down the 4 sides to get rid of the groove [just barely] and then installed the bottom using just nails. When the moisture soaks into the joint it will cause the fibres to swell and the wood that was hammered in will spring back the thickness of the wire and create a water tight joint. Let me know if this is clear enough, and I think that the magazine was Popular Woodworking, there was a picture of him on the cover I think. Good luck.

1. 
   dalfollo | Jan 05, 2005 02:39am | #7

   I think i now vaguely remember seeing one ofthe Frank Klausz videos, either "Dovetail a Drawer" or "Handtools" includes the water seal trick you mention bath you speak of...a couple links that mention that (and just because i always learn something when i read about Frank and his work)

   http://www.lvwwg.com/klaus01/LVWGklausz.HTM

   http://www.cjwa.org/news/CJWANewsNovDec1999.pdf

   AWW Mag Index:  October 97 #61

   p 34: Waterstone holder. [Tech Tips] p 38: Tuning a bench plane; how to get top-notch performance from a flea market bargain. author: Klausz

   for good measure a listing of the FK videos on his website: http://www.frankklausz.com/dalfollowww.dalfollo-daley.com

2. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 05, 2005 06:42am | #8

   dalfollo

   I'd hate to see you foul up your nice waterstones.  By using progressive grits of waterstones to sharpen each other, you will mix the grit slurry from the more abrasive stone with that of the slighter stone, thus contaminating it.  Use a ceramic stone designed for flattening, or a piece of high grit sandpaper on granite or plate glass works great, also.  Make sure to change the sandpaper for each stone, or you have the same problem all over again.

   Jeff

3. 
   sawdustom | Jan 06, 2005 03:27pm | #10

   I've spent a lot of time over the last two years learning how to sharpen plane blades, chisels, jointer blades, etc. I do not recommend the ceramic flattening stone - it was more $ and work than it was worth.I have had great success with wet/dry sandpaper stuck to glass with water. I use 180 grit for my 1000 Norton and 320 grit for my 4000 and 8000 grit. I also keep a big bucket of water nearby. After you flatten the stone, wash the stone in the water - it makes everything go much better.

3. 
   Peter36 | Jan 05, 2005 12:39pm | #9

   Hi again. I guess you would want to check directly with the manufacturer on this one as opinions vary but I see that several people have different views on how to treat your stones. I purchased mine through Lie-Nielsen, Norton brand, and I bought 2 1000 grit 1 4000 and 1 8000. I flatten the 1000's on each other and then one of them on the 4000 and then the 4000 on the 8000. I was advised of this entire method by my local distributor of LN tools. He said that it is fine with no contamination problems but he did warn of keeping the 200 grit stone for the people that buy them away from other stones because of contamination. He also advised me to keep the 1000's and 4000 in water, but only splash the 8000 before use. This is what I have also read that David Charlesworth advises. Good luck and I would highly recommend purchasing Rob Cosmans sharpening techniques video from Lie-Nielsen.