Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Apr 21, 2003 07:03pm | #1

   BG, sorry to hear you're having trouble.  One tip right off the bat -- don't use Briwax on newly finished woodwork.  It's best used on stuff that was finished a year or more ago (something to do with one of the solvents in the formula). 

   I prefer Johnson's paste wax over Minwax.  Beeswax, depending on the additional ingredients, may or may not bee (oops, funny) difficult to apply.  See below for possibilities of modifying it to make it easier.

   Here is the wax routine I use:

   • 4-ought steel wool (or a rag, if you prefer) -- apply a thin coat of wax with light pressure in small circles.  Work on a section, if it's a large surface.  Work into any open pores.
   • Remove excess wax after 5 minutes buffing lightly in circles with a soft cloth.  If this step seems difficult, make your areas smaller.
   • Wait another 10 minues or so, and buff in the direction of the grain, more vigorously than step 2
   • Wait an 1-3 hours (completely dry and hard wax) and repeat the buffing step with energy, buffing to final sheen.

   Using steel wool creates some extra heat and makes the wax easier to apply and, IMO, gives a better application by smoothing the original surface and better distributing the wax.  If you want more than one coat, apply the additional one(s) before the final step.

   Working with beeswax:  Is this pure beeswax?  You can melt it and mix in equal parts of turpentine and boiled linseed oil (equal to the amount of beeswax).  If it's not "pure" beeswax, it probably has carnauba wax and possibly paraffin (the carnauba is a common addition to make the beeswax more durable).

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/21/2003 12:10:17 PM ET by forestgirl

1. 
   BG | Apr 21, 2003 08:26pm | #2

   FG,

   This is the stuff I'm using:

   Mylands Waxes. A unique formulation of the finest natural waxes (shellac, beeswax, and carnauba) in a toluene and xylene-free carrier. Can be used over virtually any finish to accentuate and protect. Applies easily and yields a lasting and lustrous shine. 16 oz.

   Should I apply the way you suggested?  or go buy Johnsons?

1. 
   jcousins | Apr 21, 2003 08:38pm | #3

   hi guys - i've been using wax over 5 coats of shellac (and on some pieces 2 or 3 layers of lacquer over the shellac). using black bison wax (liberon) - applying it with the white scotch abrasive pads (am tempted to try the purple - but they seem a bit coarse) - once the wax is applied - wait about a 1/2 hour and rub it out - when i'm real ambitious i'll do 3 coats - incredible finish.

   jerry

1. 
   BG | Apr 22, 2003 02:22am | #5

   Jerry,

   That is exactly what I'm looking for ....but if my wife catches me buying one more can of wax..they just don't understand ...lol 

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 21, 2003 10:51pm | #4

   IMO, the problem is more likely related to your application technique than the wax you're using, so getting yet a different wax isn't likely to help.

   What do you have to work on right now? -- a piece that's already been waxed, but looks sub-par, or a newly finished piece?  If you have a finished but yet-unwaxed piece, try my outlined technique with either the Minwax or the beeswax mix.  The Minwax that I've used in the past seemed to have a bigger proportion of solvent in it than Johnson's, so it went on thinner and dried faster.  That means, you've got to get that "excess" off quickly (Step 2 above).  You don't want to have the wax so hard when you wipe off the excess that you're having to rub real hard.

   Be sure that your surface before the application of wax is clean and doesn't have fingerprints or other oddities in the finish, because wax will not cover these up.  I'd highly recommend using the 4-ought steel wool as an applicator, as it will get down dust nibs and such.

   If you only have pre-waxed pieces to work on, clean the wax off with turpentine, let the piece dry/vent off, and check the surface before trying again.  BTW, if you're finishing with shellac there shouldn't be a problem with the wax as long as the shellac is dry.  It doesn't take days.  And of course, we all know that if you happened to use a Danish oil underneath the shellac, you waited for it to completely cure before putting on the shellac, right?

   Try doing 2 coats (steps 1-3) and then a final coat including the vigorous buffing of step #4.  Your buffer needs to be soft and lint-free.

   The one thing that mystifies me is the shellac in the beeswax -- I don't know enough about wax forumlas to understand its inclusion and the pros and cons thereof.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   BG | Apr 22, 2003 02:27am | #6

   FG,

   I'm going to try your routine.  This is a new piece (2 draw lateral file for the CFO) which was finished with a base of 6 coats of shellac...and then the rubbing out process added another 6 coats or so...thanks

2. 
   ChasStanford | Apr 22, 2003 03:39am | #7

   Liberon's Professional Wax.  High Carnauba content equals high gloss.  The brands you mentioned lean a little to heavily on beeswax.  The Liberon is tough to use and a lot of work to buff out but worth the effort.