Replies

1. 
   Gretchen | May 10, 2003 01:55pm | #1

   Wax is just not an appropriate finish for a table top--it offers virtually no protection against any wear or fluids.

   Gretchen
2. 
   BG | May 10, 2003 02:05pm | #2

   Carpenter,

   No, its not just you with the Briwax.  I called them when I had similar problems with a table last year.....only marginal help.  Then I bought Mylands beeswax...was not happy with that either.  i think both these waxes are for restoring old pieces...not new pieces.

   People have said good things abut Black Bison wax but I have not used it yet...  In a book I recently read it said use lemon oil on tung oil finish...

   Several here had other solutions, hopefully they will respond to your thread. 

1. 
   Gretchen | May 10, 2003 04:00pm | #3

   Briwax should only be used on items whose finish is ABSOLUTELY fully cured or it will smear it.  It is excellent for use on antique furniture.

   Lemon oil is only scented oil. It has no use in finishing.Gretchen

3. 
   HowardAcheson | May 11, 2003 01:20am | #4

   Briwax contain toluene which reacts with finishes that are not fully cured. It should not be used on any finish that is less than a year old. It is primarily a restoration wax and the toluene cleans dirty surfaces. It is excellent for it's intended purpose.

   In fact, you are safest not to use any wax on a surface less than 4 weeks old. It takes that long for finishes to cure.

   At this point I would wipe the surface down with mineral spirits or naphtha to remove any remaining wax. Keep changing the face of the cloth so you are not just smearing it around.

   Now, you will have to sand the surface smooth and apply additional coats of the finish. Which General Finish product are you using? One is an oil/varnish, the other is a thinned wiping varnish. What you do is dependent on which one you used.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/10/2003 6:25:29 PM ET by Howie

1. 
   carpmillwork | May 11, 2003 08:29am | #5

   i use a product called seal-a-cell and also there water based poly acrilic finish

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 12, 2003 03:27am | #6

   That's an oil/varnish similar to Watco. All you need to do at this point is sand the surface lightly and then reapply per the directions. Because of it's high oil content, it takes quite a while to fully cure. Stay away from the wax, particularly Briwax. In addition to not using Briwax on surfaces less than a year old, I recommend never using it on a waterborne finish.

1. 
   carpmillwork | May 12, 2003 06:10am | #7

   why not a waterborne finnish it works fantastic

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 12, 2003 06:39pm | #8

   I have been told that toluene will readily damage surfaces with waterborne finishes. Could be wrong, but never wanted to chance it. There are any number of good, paste waxes so why consider Briwax for new work? It is intended for restoration work. They are beginning to market a wax made with a standard solvent that should be fine. Just be sure which one you use.

2. 
   ABenker | May 12, 2003 06:55pm | #9

   Interesting discussion to me as I also had problems with briwax smearing on a newly finished table top (it looked terrible and I haven't used wax since). I had no idea that it couldn't be used over a new finish (thanks for the info). What waxes work over a new finish? I guess my image of wax is now one that smears easy and ultimately obscures the topcoat after any handling of the waxed surface. Is that entirely wrong or just my experience of using briwax where it shouldn't be used? As much as wax is shown to be used on appropriate pieces (low use surfaces) there has to be some beauty and redeeming quality to the product.

   Aaron

3. 
   ChasStanford | May 13, 2003 12:10am | #10

   A low/no solvent wax like the one I mentioned above - Liberon's Professional's Wax will work wonderfully on a new finish or can be an appropriate finish in itself.

4. 
   BG | May 13, 2003 12:37am | #11

   chass,

   Was that our question #5 that was deleted? 

5. 
   ChasStanford | May 13, 2003 02:07pm | #12

   I didn't delete my previous post, but something apparently happened to it.  Anyway, try Liberon and see what you think.

6. 
   BG | May 13, 2003 02:45pm | #13

   chass,

   Yes, I'm going to buy some of the Liberon Professional wax. It appears the Liberon Black Bison, I mentioned in an earlier post, is more for restoring like Briwax and others.  I prefer to buy off the shelf rather than order ...someone in the Boston area has got to stock this stuff..thanks 

7. 
   ChasStanford | May 14, 2003 02:08am | #14

   I wouldn't count on it.  Star Finishing in Ft. Bragg, California definitely has it.

8. 
   BG | May 14, 2003 02:48am | #15

   chass,

   I just spoke with them(Liberon/Star)..they have not had it on their shelves for at least three years...and she said there is no way she is giving up her can...rats!

   She has no idea why they stoped making the professional wax, they are now pushing a locally made brand that is heavy in carnuba...

9. 
   AlanTurner | May 14, 2003 06:07pm | #16

   I think Jeff Jewitt at Homestead Finishing has a faovorite, which I would guess is both good and reliable.  Not sure what brand he carries, but it won't be bad; that's for sure.

10. 
    ChasStanford | May 15, 2003 12:52am | #17

    Cripes, I guess my can is at least three years old.  I told you it went a long way.  I'm damn disappointed to hear it's not available.  HOWEVER, you can forumulate your own waxes.  I think Star carries blocks of Carnauba wax and beeswax.  If they don't, I know it's available.

    You could probably go about 75/25 Carnauba to beeswax add enough terps to soften the whole thing and heat the concoction on an ELECTRIC stove or hot plate.  Don't use an open flame around the terps.

    Otherwise, somebody has a good wax formula for us, I just know it.  To be honest with you, I never have forumulated my own as I was always so pleased with Professionals' wax.