Replies

1. 
   RSRose | Nov 10, 2002 08:51pm | #1

   Jack,

   It all depends on the final finish surface that you want your finish to have. Many people feel that a final spray of thinned lacquer after lightly taking the surface down with 4-0 steel wool (using no wax) is the way to finish the finish.

   If you WANT a wax surface on the lacquer as added protection, then using it as the lubricant for steel wool will give you a slightly higher luster than using steel wool alone on the lacquer and then applying wax. That's because the scratch pattern will be finer using the lubricant. Either way you will end up with a matte finish made a little more lustrous with the wax. After the steel wool/wax treatment, wipe it as dry as possible, then apply another layer of paste wax and buff it to as high a sheen as it will take with a lambswool pad in an electric drill. This will take the wax down to its hardest, thinnest coat, which if treated well, can last for years before re-waxing.

   If your intent is to bring the lacquer surface to a full gloss condition, start with steel wool, (no wax), then increasing grits of wet or dry abrasive paper lubricated with soapy water or mineral spirits starting at 600 grit up through 1200-1500, then pumice then rottenstone. Or you can substitute automotive rubbing compound and polishing compound respectively for the pumice and rottenstone.

   R

1. 
   RW | Nov 11, 2002 12:24am | #2

   Well I finally get to do something a little different than Rich. He's right on the first part with wax. Wool alone will give you a dull finish, even with the wax. If I'm going to rub out, the order I go through is 0000 wool, 400 then 600 wet or dry paper, medium pumice, fine pumice, rottenstone, then Meguires automotive buffing compound. If you stick with wet or dry, thats roughly 800, 1200, 1500. I don't know what the buffing compound compares to, but it's pretty glossy at that point. Never tried the soapy water, so can't comment there. I usually use parrafin oil as a lubricant, which is rather a necessity if you use the powders. But if you do that, wipe things clean with a new cotton cloth after each application, or you'll end up mixing medium pumice with your rottenstone and have to go back to get rid of all your errant scratch marks.

1. 
   jackstraw9 | Nov 11, 2002 12:37am | #3

   Thanks, this is exactly the kind of detailed answers I was looking for. It's much better to seek advice before being less than enthused with my own interpretation/application.

1. 
   b1gcountry | Nov 11, 2002 06:37pm | #4

   One more thing, wax is a solid, and is dissolved in spirits to get it to a soft state, similar to shellac and lacquer. The spirits should not affect the lacquer too much, but I would wait until it is fully cured anyway before applying wax over a finish (it might affect the way the lacquer cures).

   Tom