Replies

1. 
   jeanlou | Jan 07, 2007 06:14pm | #1

   Nic,

   If the wax is old, it may have lost some of the solvent to evaporation, so that you are inadvertently applying too much wax in the pores.

   Since you enjoy wax finishes, have you ever thought about making your own paste wax? You could try different recipes and really find one that you like.

   Break up the wax into little pieces in the top part of a double boiler. Fill the bottom part of the double boiler with water. Add turpentine to the wax, just enough to not quite cover the wax, and turn on the heat. The wax will melt and once there are no more solids visible in the mix, remove from the heat and allow to cool...and that is that. Paste wax.  You can mix and match any type of wax that you want. Beeswax in majority, a little carnuba, a shot of paraffin...or pure beeswax. It all works. 

   You can also remelt the mix and add more turps if the wax becomes a bit dry over time.  JL

   Caution: Never apply heat directly to the turps/wax mix, unless you are looking to start a fire.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Jan 07, 2007 06:57pm | #2

   First, which of the two Briwax's are you using? One is their Original and the other is their "2000". The solvent in the Original is toluene which is a very agressive solvent. The Original is intended for restoration where the toluene assists in cleaning the surface but, it can damage newly finished surfaces. The 2000 is a standard mineral spirits based wax and is more suitable for waxing newly finished surfaces.

   All this is leading up to the fact that both Briwaxs come in colors. If you are using wax on a deep pored wood surface that has not been filled, use a wax that has a color close to, or slightly darker, than the wood color. That way the residue that ends up in the pores is not white when it dries.

   Howie.........
3. 
   Omah | Jan 08, 2007 03:59am | #3

   I use briwax quite freqently, When I buy it I usually get it in colors by the gal. and get the original fomula. I also buy a gal. of tolulene with it and thin it 1/2and1/2. Use the light brown and don't forget to burnish it while applying, let it dry at least 12 hrs. Then buff it out, I use a white scrubby first for buffing then a soft terry or cotton t shirt. when I thin it usually I just put a little puddle on the surface of the wax in the can itself and swirll it around a little with a brush till the amount I need to work with is the consistancy of maple syrup. I like it , not every body does.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 08, 2007 05:35am | #4

   This is a bad idea over finishes that are relatively new.  The toluene can do bad things to varnishes and waterborne finishes alike if they aren't fully, fully cured, and that can take months. 

1. 
   Omah | Jan 08, 2007 10:03pm | #7

   Thanks for the heads up on the cure time for poly, I knew it took a long time to cure after hardening. do you have any other cure times for water based poly, and shellac.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 08, 2007 11:20pm | #8

   Shellac is probably the shortest time.  Some say its almost immediate--as soon as the alcohol evaporates, but I suspect that there is still some shrinkage after that, so if you have used the shellac to fill pores rubbing out is best delayed for a couple of weeks.  I don't work enough with waterborne to have a really good idea I suspect it is pretty similar to varnish since there still has to be a reactive cross linking process after the finish coalesces. 

1. 
   Omah | Jan 09, 2007 12:02am | #9

   Yeah , thanks I kind of suspected that even though that the surface was dry it was still in a fragile state, have you tried any of the newer generation of waxes ie armor all or turtle series 2000 on these surfaces, like if your piece has to go out now and you can,t sit on it for a month. After raeding a little more up on the briwax It appears to have been almost exclusively formulated for going over a french polish both for protection and maintenance. Have you had any experiance with it on bare wood or over a water stain?

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 09, 2007 12:11am | #10

   I would only put wax over bare wood for decorative items that don't get handled much.  There isn't any reason to to go beyond the traditional waxes for wood.  They all give pretty similar results.  Wax designed for automotive applications often have silicone--sometimes without much indication that they do.  When some of this goes astray in a shop it can really create finishing problems.  So stay away from automotive waxes.  Johnson's Paste wax is good, so is Minwax.  I also like antiquax, mostly because it smells nice. 

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Jan 09, 2007 01:17am | #11

   Once the water evaporates in waterborne finishes a second process called coelescing takes place. This is the mixing of the chemicals in originally suspended in the water. It's the coelescing process that leads to the beginning of the third process which is curing. It's a long story but it takes waterborne finishes almost as long to fully cure as it does oil based. It may occur somewhat faster, but not much.Howie.........

1. 
   Omah | Jan 09, 2007 02:04am | #12

   Thanks again for shareing your wisdoms in this area, advise well taken. I guess time is going to be our only ally in this fast paced world. Kind of a conundrum. I'll try and keep my head up about this. This is the stuff that they don't put on the side of the cans.

4. 
   jackplane | Jan 08, 2007 07:29am | #5

   Remove the wax with paint thinner. Apply pore filler and sand with very fine paper. Recoat with danish oil, and rewax when dry.

    

1. 
   nicrhode | Jan 08, 2007 12:03pm | #6

   Thanks for all your advise, obviously I underestimated the complexity of this issue and will have to do some trials of my own to find the solution that works best for me, Nic

5. 
   dave15 | Jan 09, 2007 04:35am | #13

   Have you tried using the Satin wax made by Watco?  I use it when using Watco danish oil.