I have finished several table tops with multiple coats of varathane 9000 gloss varnish. In each case after applying 3 to 5 coats, I leveled the surface with p400 grit, applied two more coats, and then rubbed out with p600 grit, followed by a series of finer abrasives depending on the gloss desired. I have never been able to get a smooth sheen after waxing with paste wax. The best results have been when I was rubbing to high gloss. I have tried a variety of application methods, multiple coats, and very vigorous buffing. The worst result was on my last project. I rubbed out with p600 and then p1200, using a circular motion. I developed an excellent satin sheen until I applied paste wax and buffed. The extra sheen from the waxing resulted in a blotchy sheen and it highlighted variations in scratch pattern in a very unflattering manner. The only process that I have used with any success is to buff the final wax coat with 0000 steel wool with the grain. Any recommendations?
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Replies
Tom,
I have never used the varnish you spoke of. I'm assuming it is a short oil varnish meant for rubbing.
How long do you wait before rubbing? With as many as seven coats you should let it sit for at least a month. I know this sounds like a long time, but even then it probably isn't fully cured yet.Try the old thumbnail test. In an inconspicuous area, push your nail into the surface. If it leaves a mark, it's not ready. I know this is a tough sell when it' a commercial project but..............
Concerning your last project, instead of going from 600 straight to 1200 I would have used 800 too. You won't take a 600 grit scratch with 1200.
You may also consider trying rubbing with Abralon pads. I've rubbed surfaces down with these pads in a half hour that would have taken me four hours with wetdry sand paper. I know Teri Masachi wrote about these a while back. Check it out. You can get them from auto supply as well as some of the woodworking suppliers.
I think the oil in the wax is reacting with the surface that isn't fully cured yet. Why not skip the wax and use one of the polishes like those used on cars. Some thing like a swirl remover will leave a very clean and glossy surface
Also any circular motions will ,without a doubt , be very noticeable in any case. When using wetdry paper always keep the pattern straight. You can take these scratches out , again, with some of the auto rubbing compounds. if you are looking foe a satin sheen use them with a grey or white scotch pad. The grey is more aggressive than the white.
Good luck,
Peter gedrys
Peter,
Thanks for your very thorough reply. I think rubbing out in a straight line, using smaller steps in abrasive grit, and letting the finish cure longer should all help. I did not let the finish cure very long, but I tested it by sanding with a stearated paper and was able to create white powder, so I concluded it was cured. Is that type of test a good indicator? I will try the finger nail test on the next piece.
I have use the automotive products with a random orbital sander and buffing pad. Do you think this a poor practice for developing a gloss finish? (as opposed to maintaining a straight buffing line)
Tom,
When I said use a straight line in rubbing I was suggesting that for wet and dry sandpaper. Using an orbital machine is the way to go for a glossy surface. And yes, the automotive products are superb for this.
Seeing powder is a good litmus test, however, the surface may be " set up " but the body of the coating may still be soft. Along with a nail, use your nose.
God luck,
Peter Gedrys
Dear Peter,
I just finished another piece, a mahogany dining table. I used the same varnish, Varathane 900 gloss, and applied four coats before leveling with 400 grit. I took care to wet sand with the grain only. I then applied one full coat, let it dry two days after which it did not smell, did not dent with a fingernail, and sanded without gumming the paper. (Colorado is very dry) I then polished with 600 grit and 800 grit, staying with the grain only. The finish looked pretty good at this point.
Now I departed from previous experience. I dissolved some paste wax in mineral spirits. I poured a little into some 0000 steel wool and rubbed out the surface, again with the grain. I went over the surface four times and then let the solvent dry. I then buffed to a satin sheen. The result was great, a very consistent and smooth satin sheen. I think the main contributors to success were two factors: working only with the grain was very important and keeping the amount of wax to a minimum was also important.
Thanks for your help and best regards, Tom.
Tom,
Glad to hear about your results. Be sure and try the Abralon pads at some point. They will greatly reduce all the hand rubbing you're doing at the initial stage
Thanks for letting us know of your success. keep up the good work.
Peter Gedrys
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