greetings~
I’m in the design process for an arts-n-crafts bookcase. I see the classic approach is to use through tenons with wedges for the top and bottom shelf. I don’t know how to classify the wedges I’m speaking of, but not the type that you drive into the end grain, parallel with the tenon. Instead I’m talking about the wedges that are perpendicular to the tenon, drawing the shelf or rail closer to the post or side – A configuration that could be taken apart after assembly… So, if we’re on the same page, Some questions:
1. Is this method used historically just as visual interest, or was it meant for dissassembly?
2. Are the tenoned shelves also blind-dadoed into the side, or is that overkill?
3. If you did want the case to “knock-downable”, would you suggest hanging an intermediate shelf with just pins?
4. Is a small bookcase, no more than 36×36″, made with top and bottom shelves using the wedged “drawing” tenon, Is it going to reqire a back to keep it from racking?
I’m sure I’ll think of more later – hope to hear from some folks,
thanks,
mike in olympia
Replies
What you're talking about would be known as a tusk tenon, and yes, thay are good for knock-down. Just don't use a steep taper in the wedges, or you'll blow out the short end grain eventually.
I don't think a dado for the shelves is overkill, the dado will help support and keep the shelf flat.
I would most definetly have a back on it to keep it from racking, unless I was going to hang it or attach it to a wall.
There was an article in FWW just in the few months on this. I am in the process of making a stool using these wedge tenons. They really add a nice aesthetic touch and I suppose they enable breaking a part down , but not many would use that feature.The article suggested using wedges at 5 degrees. I used a dado on the stool because it was for children as they tend to use them pretty roughly. I think a bookcase out of oak wouldn't require a dado as long as the tenon was substantial.
anybody out there remember the FWW issue that discussed the tusk tenon? I looked through mine, though an issue may be displaced... Was it a one page tip or more of a full feature?
thanks,
mike.
Mike, the issue on the wedge tenons was June,2003 (#163); it was a full article and very helpful.
Mike,
1. Much craftsman furniture was shipped fully or partially disassembled, so the "keyed tenons" served a practical function by making the assembly process easier. I suppose Stickley would have called this part of the designs "honesty".
2. Yes, dado the sides.
3. Another set of keyed through tenons would probably be more aesthetically pleasing and historically correct.
4. While many examples of small book cases with open backs exist, I would enclose the back. Seems once any amount of weight is added to the case, it becomes rather easy to rack and the joints become badly damaged in the process.
Finally, Bob Lang recommends cutting the keyed tenons and their mortices at 5 - 10 degrees. As already noted, the ends of these joints can split rather easily, so be careful wedging them. Lang recommends tightening the joint with a clamp, then using the wedge to hold the joint, rather than trying to use the wedge to tighten it. BTW, if you don't yet have Bob's books Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture and More Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture, Cambium books has them on sale as a 2 volume set. I find them excellent, with clear descriptions and very good measured drawings. http://www.cambiumbooks.com/books/arts_and_crafts/SHOP_DRAW/
Jeff
If anyone else saw the FWW #163 article on the mighty wedge, I have a question on the single wedge shown there. (see pic) In the article it looks as if the tenon has been reduced in thickness from 3/4" to 1/2". Could anyone confirm that that's a good idea to reduce the thickness? My tenon width will be 3/4" and length 3/4". Is there a rule of thumb on the relationship of length of tenon vs. maximum thickness that you would want to split and wedge?
Happy chopping!
mike in olympia.
Mike, Thanks for the reference to the bookcase in the #157 issue of FWW; I have been thinking of exactly that type of bookcase to do but hadn't found a plan or design. It helped a lot not only the design but the finish discussed in the article sounds interesting enough to try. Thanks!
( I had to buy about 500bf of white oak for a boat I am doing and the boat required only about 1/3 of it so I can build a lot of bookcases, ot whatever looks good in white oak, with what is left. ) :)
Thanks, and right back at you, Alex ;)
for my little project for a friend, turns out he didn't want to "waste" the few inches that the loose tenons would require - he's fitting this between other furnature. So I'm going to use fixed wedges on the intermediate shelves, and dovetail the case top and bottom.
If you do something like #157, are you going to use glue or a back? or use the loose tenon on all the shelves, as one reader replied? Personally, I'd like to experience how it functions just the way it was presented - nothing like experience, right?
And yes, I'll probably try that finish too!
I will likely not use glue or a back. I am supposed to be making two stools for my grandchildren using nothing but the tenons but I keep getting diverted to my boat project. I likely won't get to the bookcase until much later.
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