Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 13, 2005 08:51pm | #1

   Weldbond for veneering??

    

   I'd use hide glue.. Easier to fix!

2. 
   silver77 | May 16, 2005 07:08am | #2

   Hi Andrew,

   I just glued a couple hundred feet of walnut veneer in my vacuum bag. My research lead me to Unibond 800, a urea formaldeahide glue with rigid glueline. Cheap, easy to use and for more info and ordering info go to vacuum pressing systems forum...all about folks using this glue for vacuum bagging. Their customer service is second to none.

   The weldbond is similar but I think unibond 800 is better...if you do a search on that forum you'll get some interesting info...

   best regards,

   silver 

1. 
   macalex | May 16, 2005 09:35am | #3

   Couple of thoughts from someone who has done a fair bit of little bitty veneering over the years:

   Surely no-one seriously uses hide glue! I know the conservation argument, and can see a justification when fixing antiquarian veneering, or covering complex shapes when you don't have a vacuum bag, but for conventional modern use!

   Does it matter much what you use as far as strength is concerned? The primary considerations are surely ease of use and cost? If the veneer is reasonably flat and the substrate reasonably well prep'd, almost anything should meet the tech specs, right?

   MalcolmNew Zealand  |  New Thinking0.06% of the world's people are Kiwis

1. 
   silver77 | May 16, 2005 05:33pm | #4

   For large pieces of veneer,pva glues creep too much over time from what I've read,although we used it on our first conference table. Open time is also too short for vacuum bagging in my opinion.

   The urea resins have a  ridgid glueline that doesn't creep over the long run...especially important for tabletops,etc. They also have 1 hour open time...making them extremely user friendly for vacuum bagging...

   regards,

   silver

     

1. 
   macalex | May 17, 2005 12:29am | #5

   Yes, agreed.

   I have used what I recall was a urea-based glue called (in the UK) Cascamite - mixed with water from a white powder - which I can no longer (in New Zealand) purchase. Mostly for larger jobs. Good stuff, dried water-clear, quite brittle when hard.

   The PVA glue that I now use - admittedly mostly for small jobs - also performs very well. Creep is not an issue, open time is manageable. I'm about to put together a vacuum bag to decrease processing time.

   I also use 2-pot epoxies for glueing shell - both solids and veneer - and wood to metal.

   MalcolmNew Zealand  |  New Thinking0.06% of the world's people are Kiwis

3. 
   DougF | May 17, 2005 07:39pm | #6

   Andrew,

   I use Unibond 800 for veneering and edge joining solid wood side panels and tops for furniture.  The ability to control the open time and the fact that there is no creep is great benefit.

   Doug