Replies

1. 
   colebearanimals | Dec 29, 2007 12:05am | #1

   Howdy Bob,

             I've used the Weld-On 3 for 3/8 and 1/2" acrylic. It's thin like water. Is the #4 the thicker, gel type?

             Using the #3, because it's fast setting, I apply it to one piece and then push the parts together until they grab, maybe 2-3 seconds. Then I take a syringe with solvent and apply it along the joint. It will pull in and fill in the remaining voids, much like soldering copper pipe. Seems plenty strong as well. Nothing has come apart yet :>)

                                                         Paul

              

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Dec 29, 2007 03:41pm | #6

   Paul,

   From the WEBsite:  Under certain circumstances, especially with high humidity, this cement may leave a white mark on the plastic (commonly called blushing). For a more blush resistant, but somewhat slower acrylic cement, we suggest you try Weld-On #4.Weld-On #4 is the same as Weld-On #3 except it is MODERATELY FAST CURING.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   DJK | Dec 29, 2007 07:27am | #2

   I would not use acrylic because it is brittle. Blade guards are made of polycarbonate. I've made a number of guards from 1/4" polycarb. Very easy to heat and bend. Cut the hole with what ever you have, it does not need to be pretty. FW did a piece on using plastics in the shop a number of years back.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Dec 29, 2007 03:37pm | #5

   Rats.  I got the acrylic for free from the local hardware.  Oh well, nothing lost there.  I guess I misread that article, just read it the other night.  Guess I'll have to go back and see if they have polycarbonate ¼" thick.

   One question is, would you use the Weldon as the adhesive for the polycarbonate?

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 29, 2007 04:51pm | #8

   try http://www.multicraftplastics.com/access_supplies/index.htmlAsk Mel what NASA uses? And then there is good old bolts and nuts!

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Dec 29, 2007 04:53pm | #9

   Wait a second here.  What I'm reading is that I could use simple PVC cement?

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   saschafer | Dec 31, 2007 02:42am | #14

   Lee Valley sells polycarbonate sheets. You can also get it from places like McMaster-Carr. As for adhesives, just be sure that the one you use lists polycarbonate as one of the plastics that it works with.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   mapleman | Dec 29, 2007 06:53pm | #13

   Guess I'll have to go back and see if they have polycarbonate ¼" thick.

   Bob, there are other brands of poly, but the one with the most name recognition is Lexan. If you can't find it locally, try ebay, there is a guy I have bought from that has small offcuts  in various sizes for a fair price. Search "lexan" from the home page and then narrow results (column on left hand side) by clicking "business and industrial".

   Also, there is a great badger pond article here that details making an overarm blade guard (this one doesn't use glue to hold it together)

   Cheers,

   Lee

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Dec 31, 2007 05:11pm | #15

   Lee,

   Excellent! 

   Those are the plans I will use.  I have beams up over the TS that will facilitate attachment of the arm.  Tonight I'll hopefully complete the downdraft outfeed table and the overarm is next.  Then I can connect all the stationary tools to the DC.

   After that is the RAS/Chopsaw box and the DC will be complete except for the cyclone trashcan.  Haven't quite figured out the placement for that yet.  The DC has a 5" to a 4" Y that provides for 2 4" runs; one for stationary tools and the other for the RAS/Chopsaw, portable BS and router table.

   Thanks for the link,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

3. 
   mapleman | Dec 29, 2007 08:05am | #3

   Bob,

   I think DJK may be right - it might be best to use Lexan rather than acrylic - I believe acrylic can shatter if impacted (like if it gets knocked into the blade).

   Lee

4. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 29, 2007 02:31pm | #4

   Bob..

   Another poster said.. I would not use acrylic because it is brittle. Blade guards are made of polycarbonate.

   I for one fully agree.. For what that's worth to you!

   Acrylic shatters like glass!

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Dec 29, 2007 03:50pm | #7

   10-4 Will.  Acrylic is out - too dangerous in case of an accident.  From further research it appears that Lexan-II (Polycarbonate) is the way to go.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 29, 2007 04:56pm | #10

   10-4 Will. Acrylic is out - too dangerous in case of an accidentLOL LOL I saw the 10-40 and tried to look up that glue with Google! LOLMy brain not that good these days!

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Dec 29, 2007 05:09pm | #11

   Will,

   It's CB lingo for I agree with you.  http://gwally.com/directions/pdf/cblingo.pdf

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 29, 2007 05:35pm | #12

   It's CB lingo for I agree with you..Only 'RIG' I ever drove was a Tank Retriver.. No CB radio in there that I ever knew of! Only Officers spoke to me on the Radio.. OK so after the the Radio grunt handed over the microphone!If an Officer yelled out numbers I thought is was something for a Courts Martial!court-martial (plural courts-martial ) is a military court or legal body who are convened to determine the guilt or innocence of military men and women accused of violating the ... Whatever somebody said!