Anyone with experience/thoughts on using West System epoxy on furniture. I’ve misplaced my FW issue on adhessives. I’ve done some work with UF109 in the past but for health reasons would like to try the epoxy.
What is the working time of West Systems?
Will the glue lines in the joints (I’m assuming there will be the odd small gap) for black walnut blend like UF109? Will the glue lines accept stain?
Is it possible to repair joints where epoxy had previously been used?
Thanks
Replies
I've use West System epoxy on about a dozen veneer panels. I really like its open working time of at least 30 minutes to precisely align the veneer with the substrate and the laid-up panel with cauls before sliding it into a vacuum press.
The problem with your intended application is that (I think) the answers to your questions are unfavorable. The glue line is visible, does not take stain, and even on unstainded wood looks different from a varnish finish. Repairing a poor joint can be done with more epoxy, but another adhesive will require cutting back to bare wood.
It might be possible to add artist's oil colors (e.g. burnt umber for walnut) to the just-mixed epoxy. But you will need to experiment with proportions and effects on cure time, etc.
If you plan to go ahead, consider adding thickeners. The as-mixed epoxy is the consistency of watery syrup.
Yet another possible inconvenience is that West System epoxy comes in 32 oz containers, which might be more than you can easily use. The small self-dispenser epoxies at HD and others might be more convenient, and they are available as pre-mixed gels.
Edited 5/10/2006 6:45 pm by JohnH
I have been using the West System for several years now. It is a very reliable and predictable epoxy and easy to use.
If you need to tint, you can use earth pigments or UTC's.
It will not take stain. I use tinted shellac over the epoxy to color it sometimes if I don't tint the epoxy.
It will not go bad in the containers.
The metered pumps are nice for mixing and there are several different types of additives for thickening,I use the microfiber sometimes, and different hardeners depending on the set-up time you are looking for.
Jamestown Distributors sells it and can answer any technical questions you may have.
J.P.
I have used quite a bit of it. I am not sure from the wording of your question just how you intend to use it. If you are intending to use it to edge join boards, I don't use it that way. Epoxy likes to have a fat glue-line, and for that purpose, you will squeez most of it out.
I like it for veneering, especially curved work, or for a lot of jointery like M&T for doors and table legs.
The cure time depends on the activator you choose, and the temperature, and should always be thickened when used as an adhesive. Otherwise, it is too thin and cures too brittle. You control the properties by what you add to it. Whenever you choose a brand, get their booklet, and read it first to avoid mistakes.
What are you needing to make that you will need to dissamble?
Is this exterior furniture in walnut? If not, then I don't understand using epoxy. For one thing, epoxy is very messy to work with, and with walnut, you would have pores filled with epoxy that would take quite a lot to remove. And, as was mentioned epoxy isn't a good choice for edge joining boards in a panel because this is about the only case where you actually can "starve" the joint.
You do mention expecting "small odd gaps". Proper edge joints in panels don't have such odd gaps, and you should work on your jointing technique to eliminate them. A good edge joint should not be visible at all, with only discontinuity in the grain running across the joint making it detectable. It doesn't matter in that case whether the glue takes stain.
Most people use Titebond for edge joints, despite a small "creep" problem that occasionally occurs. If this is for exterior use, Titebond III is sufficiently waterproof. For interior furniture, I use hide glue. It doesn't creep, is as strong as Titebond or most other glues (all of which are stronger than the wood) and, though it shouldn't matter, it does accept stain. No health problems either--hide glue is just less refined gelatine.
Could I ask what you are using the West System epoxy for????
As for using again over a failed epoxied joint. Cut the joint clean and add new material. failed joints are so rough and now that i think of it, I've never seen a clean brake.
I've used many times on oily wood such as teak for laying veneered panels and adding a bull-nose as an edge treatment.
Your hardeners come in different temperature ranges. Fibers are available for filling if necessary.
Neil
http://www.furnitology.com
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