Replies

1. 
   Elcoholic | Jan 07, 2004 05:56am | #1

   Sounds like your rushing it and the epoxy hasn't cured enough.  Wait a week.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

2. 
   JBD | Jan 07, 2004 07:38am | #2

   Hi Jeff,

   I got your e-mail - thanks.  The waxy film is amine blush.  Amine blush just washes off with a little soapy water n rinse, or ammonia n water.  I rarely do this, as I just sand it off with 100 grit, then sand fine - but you should wash the veneer front apron.   Make sure you're in a warm environment throughout the epoxy cure cycle - needs heat.  I'm epoxying some Pommele Sapele veneered doors right now for my new entertainment center, and I've sanded through the sealer into the high spots on the wood, so I will follow with a second seal coat - not a problem to sand through, just apply more (I'm using it to create a clear, non-shrink filler).   After second coat is on, definitely wash amine blush off, then fine sand, just to scuff for adhesion and topcoat with poly.   Make sure your ratios are right - 5:1 for normal hardener, and 3:1 for the 207 special coatings hardener - that would make a gummy mess if wrong. 

   If you want to avoid the amine blush, spend some bucks (26?) on the 207 hardener, as it will not blush (amine blush, nor the whitening "blush" from sunlight). 

   Build a boat with the rest of the 207 hardener to use it up.  Real easy, just takes a year or so of intense work, hogs up your shop, and taps the woodworking prowess of God out of you.  Most fulfilling wood project I ever undertook though. 

   - JB   

    

   "The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)

   http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro

1. 
   jtandrews | Jan 07, 2004 04:25pm | #3

   Thanks for the input. 

   Before your post, I did exactly as you prescribed.  I put a second coat (2 coats, actually) on the counter top itself.  I'm amazed how much nicer these extra coats come up. 

   I rushed the project and didn't pick up the 207 hardener.  I didn't want to wait, and the West System literature didn't 'sell' me enough on the difference.  I am using the pumps.  So there shouldn't be a problem with the ratios, and I keep the temp in the shop above sixty degrees whenever epoxy or any other glue is curing.

   I plan to let things sit until tomorrow allowing for at least 40 hours total cure time.  I'll wash the blush and sand with 220.  Then I'll apply the poly. 

   Are there any tricks to using water-based poly over the West? 

   Thanks for your help.

   JTA

1. 
   JBD | Jan 07, 2004 05:34pm | #4

   Adhesion might be less than oil-based poly.  Do a test on a small scrap piece thats been epoxied, or an inconspicuous area of the apron.  When dry, rub it with the edge of a nickel (common test by finish chemists).  That should determine if adhesion if good enough.  I'd tell you to cross-hatch with razor, then apply tape and pull, but that would ruin the surface.

   For interior, you might be better off with just the epoxy surface?  Don't really know the answer here.  The only enemy of epoxy is sunlight. - JB  

   "The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)

   http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro

1. 
   jtandrews | Jan 18, 2004 05:10am | #5

   Since you helped, I thought I should post a photo of the finished product. 

   It's been in place (and in use) for a week now, and seems to be doing well.  Next time I coat with West, I'll definitely use the 207 hardener.

   Now it's time to finish the Med. Cab.

   Thanks for the advice.

   Jeff

   
1. 
   JBD | Jan 18, 2004 08:45am | #6

   Very nice Jeff!  Its exactly as I envisioned - good description on your part.  Did you kerf-bend the Cherry apron?  Be sure you seal the sink down around the edges - looked a little bare in the photo - couldn't tell.  A great sealer these day is PL polyurethane sealant.  It has high elasticity and adhesion like silicone, but won't ruin future refinish jobs from silicone contamination - its paintable.  They don't have clear though, just black, bown, white, and concrete color.

   Nice joinery too.  Now go build a boat.  Did I mention that building a boat would be the most fulfilling woodworking project you'll ever undertake?  sorry - just too giddy 'bout my boat.  - JB 

   "The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)

   http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro

2. 
   jtandrews | Jan 18, 2004 05:27pm | #7

   Thanks for the positive comments.

   The apron is kerfed.  It's actually a piece of cherry ply over two pieces of birch ply.  Everything is laminated together with, what else, West System.  It took a little trial and error to get the kerfs just right- flexible but not showing through.  I tried doing the 'proper' way by resawing solid cherry.  But without an actual resaw set up, I didn't have much luck slicing the thin pieces that were 8 inches tall.

   I still don't want to build a boat.  I run a marina for a living, and see boats all day long.  Building a boat might not seem like getting away from the office.

   Thanks again.

   Jeff