Thanks to everyone that answered my question.
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Replies
Mineral oil.
How will the oil affect glueup if it gets into dados like last time? ...assuming you've tried it of course.
Why wet sand? Shellac dries very fast. Just sand it normally.
I wanted a super smooth finish and that's how I decided to get there. I am aware of alternate options. I'm interested in what other liquids people use for the technique I described, which is why I asked. How fast shellac dries has nothing to do with it.
Water with a bit of dish soap is what I used last. I’ve also used Murphy oil soap. Some of the FW contributors like Behlen Wood Lube, though I’ve not tried it as I’ve not seen it sold locally.
+1 John C2. Totally unnecessary.
500 grit on shellac will do the job.
MJ, I generally pre-finish with shellac, and just dry sand it with all the joints taped. After the final assembly is done, I’ll come back to the shellaced surfaces I want really smooth and use Boos Block Oil (which is predominately mineral oil, mixed with linseed and orange oil) with 500 grit or Renaissance Wax with 0000 steel wool.
JAS
I keep s few dimensions of back rod in the shop. these tuck nicely into dados and sliding dovetails. For non-captured places I just use painter's tape.
I really thin Zinssers Seal Coat for an internal sealer. This has worked well for dressers and wardrobes where I want a smooth, sealed internal surface (no snagged sweaters or silks). I just wait a half hour or so and sand to 400.
I have just used a spritz of water for a shellac lube to go to 1500 for something I was playing around with. It seemed to work fine and the moisture and spoil just wiped up with a paper towel. Not sure if this would translate well to a larger surface area.
I primarily use shellac to finish my work. After a few coats, I typically use either 400 grit sand paper or 0000 steel wool to smooth any nibs/raised grain. It's just a light pressure sanding. You might want to try dry sanding with shellac to see if it works well for you.
+2 John_c2 Dry at 400 or 600.
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