I recently went to this famous mid-century maker’s museum outside of Philadelphia and would like to make this 3-step stool. I’m perplexed about the curve in the horizontal pieces that connect the vertical step supports. Would it be best to do steam bending (something I’ve never tried and find a bit intimidating) or perhaps start with a thicker piece than the final dimension, and cut out an inner and curve along the length with a bandsaw?
Thanks so much.
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For parts that small I'd cut from solid stock, but maybe cut the joinery and test fit before cutting the curves. Thev look like bridle joints. Second choice would be bent laminations... you could make one wide lam and rip it to get identical parts.
They don't seem to curve that much. I'd likely just cut the curves from a thicker solid piece.
Agree. Cut from solid stock with a helpful grain pattern that is friendly to your curve and you should have no problem. Otherwise, laminate but I'm confident you don't need to go there.
I have made several similar step stools (library stairs.) I used 8/4 stock, cut the joints on the ends using a tapered block to get the angle right, then cut the curves with a bandsaw and cleaned up with a spokeshave and sandpaper wrapped around a flexible steel rule. Then used a router to put beaded edges on the pieces, except for directly under the steps. I'll upload a picture.
Hmmm. Picture didn't come thru. I'll try again. This time it has worked.
Thanks jharveyb for the comments and picture. This will be very helpful. Could you explain the tapered block for the tenon angle a bit more?
Sure. I make my tenons one of two ways:
1) I have a Powermatic single end tenoner. I figure out the angle that the horizontal piece needs to make with the leg, then cut an angle block to that angle. (I have the mortise going into the leg perpendicular to the surface of the leg; only the tenon is angled.) I then put the angle block on the surface of the tenoner and the work piece on top of it. This angles the tenon.
2) For most people, a tablesaw and tenoning jig (or way to hold the work piece vertically) is a more common method. I put the angle block against the face of the jig, then the work piece against it. It's also possible to just angle the tablesaw blade to the correct angle. Just make sure in either case that you adjust the height of the blade for each side of the tenon. If you are using a bridle joint, you can set up a dado blade to cut the notch all in one go. Let me know if anything needs more clarification.
Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. I do have a tenoning jig. And BTW your stool is exquisite; much more polished than Wharton’s.
Finally getting around to this and forgot to ask back in Sept, do have any plans you’d be willing to share? Thanks
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