Replies

1. 
   lwilliams | Jul 12, 2006 06:20am | #1

   A saw set and trammel points.

1. 
   dgreen | Jul 12, 2006 06:21am | #3

   We must have been typing at the same time.
   Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb

2. 
   dgreen | Jul 12, 2006 06:20am | #2

   I believe one is a saw set and the other a set of trammels.

   Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
3. 
   forestgirl | Jul 12, 2006 06:56pm | #4

   Metod, I finally got around to trying out the Evapo-Rust solution last month, and I gotta tell you, for anything with threads it's especially a godsend.  Just makes the rust disappear, absolutely no scrubbing, and the threads are very clean and ready to go!

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

4. 
   BruceS | Jul 13, 2006 02:06am | #5

   It was fun watching them download.  Had them figured out very early on.   The other posts are correct.  My best guess is late 19th early 20th century.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

5. 
   GDH2 | Jul 13, 2006 04:12am | #6

   Thanks all.

   Sorry the rust offended! I figured someone would know and I did not want to spend the time disassembling and cleaning unless I was going to use it.

   The de-rusting lesson was good. I have a gallon of EvapoRust that I haven't tried yet. But I placed a 3x5 card atop the can with a note to compare it to the suggested vinegar and citric solutions.

   If I find the saw set works well on my backup hand saw I will probably clean it up.

   Boy, those are savage trammel points! They would work for marking an arch that spanned my house.

   Thanks again.

6. 
   forestgirl | Jul 13, 2006 06:56am | #7

   I bought 5 gallons from a distributor who was retiring.  I haven't tried vinegar, but will do a comparison run for ya.  We buy vinegar at the Costco warehouse store real cheap.

   I, for one, greatly appreciate the fact that it's not an acid (such as the ubiquitous Naval Jelly).  It doesn't discolor the metal, it can be used without gloves, and one doesn't need worry if it gets splashed on the skin or clothes.

   I had a couple of quick-clamps that had sat out for a couple of weeks and gotten rusty.  Dumped the whole things into a bath to clean them up.  Vinegar may have worked just as well, but I'm pretty sure Naval Jelly would have done nasty things to the paint, plastic and paper labels.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

1. 
   dgreen | Jul 13, 2006 06:59am | #8

   I'll trade you one of those dust pickups you were looking at for a gallon.
   Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb

7. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Jul 13, 2006 07:17am | #9

   Evening Metod..

   Sounds as if you have to soak the rust area in vinegar. Will if work effectively on say a drill press column which would have to be wiped straight up as soaking would not be practical? If soaking is mandatory, could you wet soak some old towels in vinegar and just wrap them around the column over-nite? Or just lay them on top of a BS table over-nite?

   Curious as if you've given it any thought or research?

   Regards...

   SARGE.. g-47 

8. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Jul 13, 2006 04:15pm | #10

   I might give it a try, Metod. At the least, I could add some lettuce and olive oil if it doesn't work. :>)

   Let you know what type results I get. As you stated, it's a cheap shot at a commonly occurring problem and worth taking. Sometimes simple is the best solution.

   Regards...

   SARGE.. g47

9. 
   Len | Jul 13, 2006 07:50pm | #11

   Metod,

   Just cruising your thread. Nice set of trammel points.

   I have used vinegar to clean both calcium build up and rust. I hate the smell of vinegar. Possibly why I don't like pickles. It works but seems to take longer and I always seem to have to wire brush off the heavier buildups.  Also it loses it's effectiveness after a short time.

   I haven't tried citric acid other than to clean my bbq of grease. So I can't say any more on that.

   I've had success with evapo-rust. See my thread a while back. http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=8170.1 In fact one of the editors at fine woodworking picked up on one of the threads and they did a test. Can't remember what issue it was in.

   I've also used Rust-Free with good success but not on heavily rusted items. But it does a great job on surface rust.

   I started out restoring a bunch of old tools given to me when I was a teenager. All my dad and godfather gave me was navel jelly, a wire brush, and a thick pair of gloves. I don't need to tell how nasty that stuff is.

   My godfather gave me his 1936 Delta 14" bandsaw about a year ago. Even thought it still ran. I decided to restore and rebuild it. That's what got me started searching out alternatives to acid based rust removers. I looked in to electrolysis and all types of commercial rust removers. I decided that electrolysis required (for me) to much setup. Other commercial rust removers seemed to have phosphoric acid as their active component. I really hate the smell of it. I also noticed that every time I spilled a little of it on the shop floor it would foam up and leave a clean spot. Can't have any clean spots on the garage floor. LOL

   While Evapo-rust requires you to immerse the entire part is inconvenient. I prefer the near odorless smell. The solution remains effective for quite some time. I poured the solution into a jar and soak small parts in it. I've been using it for about a year. Adding a little water. I have noticed it's losing it's effectiveness a little, but it still doing the job.

   BTW. I've been rampage repairing all my brass sprinkler valves. I have a bucket of CLR mixed with water that I immerse the parts in. It removes the all the calcium build up and the rust from the steel parts. The funny thing is. CLR right out the bottle will make calcium build foam but doesn't seem to clean it all off. I end up scrubbing and tossing it back in. Adding water to CLR and letting the part soak overnight is more effective. Go figure.

   Sorry for the ramble.

   Len

10. 
    Len | Jul 13, 2006 09:34pm | #12

    Metod,

    I agree with inexpensive and being satisfied with the results. Funny thing is the bandsaw came from a farm in Napa Valley where my godfather had pickling vats. Maybe that's why I hate the smell of vinegar.

    Enjoy!

    Len

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Jul 14, 2006 04:11am | #13

   Can some of you describe the vinegar method of de-rusting?

   I have cleaned a lot of hand tools with my battery charger and Arm&Hammer super soap. 

   Would love to try the vinegar method.  Is there more than one vinegar method?

   Thanks,

   Alan - planesaw

11. 
    forestgirl | Jul 15, 2006 04:43am | #14

    "you will be able to scrub off the residue"  That's why I prefer EvapoRust.  There is no scrubbing of little tiny threads that I can hardly see while trying to hold a little tiny screw or whatever with big muscle-y fingers.

    forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
    

12. 
    forestgirl | Jul 15, 2006 06:23pm | #15

    I've de-rusted a couple of larger flat things too.  On thicker rust, it saves time to scrape a little first.  Or a light scrape after a few hours of soaking.  But when the over-night soaking is done, it's clean.  I took pictures, but can't find them on this computer, so they may be down at the store.

    I'm sure the occasion will present itself to do a comparison test in the next couple of weeks.  Will LYK.

    forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)