What do you think of this Unisaw
This Unisaw popped up on on Craig’s list tonight, right here on “my” island. Replacement motor (2HP). I know squat about Unisaws. What might you think of the vintage, the price, anything I should watch out for???
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Replies
FG ,
I don't remember what type of TS you are using now but , that's a good old saw and it will outlast any of us .
O.K. you could dedicate your present saw as a dado or a miter saw and use the Unisaw for ripping lumber and cutting sheet goods , or sell your present saw .
Heck those fences are a $ 2 - 300 dollar item .
old iron , buy it or I will come up there and take it home with me .
seriously it looks to be the same vintage as my model made in the 40s and a fair price imo .
good luck dusty
Watch out that someone else doesn't buy it first. I've used old (50's and 60's) Unisaws and newer ones. Great machine, great price. It looks likes it's been used in a real shop, not just owned by a collector or middleman...
Expert since 10 am.
Edited 10/6/2007 12:11 am ET by jackplane
Thanks everyone (and keep the advice coming). I sent him an email the minute I saw the ad, but haven't heard back. Unfortunately, I'm booked with obligations from 8am to 10am tomorrow, minimum (really until about 1pm) so I don't know if I'll get a crack at it.
This is one time when being on the island may be a help -- nobody from Seattle's gonna be hear at 8am to beat me to the punch, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
What might you think of the vintage, the price, anything I should watch out for???
Check out the unifence. If the saw itself is in good condition, the unifence IMHO is a real plus.
Let us know what you work out.
One thing to look for is wear on the arbor shaft. I bought an old saw and didn't see it. Someone had spun a blade on it for a little while and the shaft was chewed up.
The fence is a real plus. That's the fence I have. With that fence there is no need for a rear rail of any kind. So your out feed table can but right up to the cast iron table.
There's no little area where boards can hang up.
It looks like a keeper to me. If it's in good working order, I'd make a move on it.
Go for it! I paid 650.00$ for a 1939 model, and have absolutely no regrets. My saw has the original 11/2 hp which from doing my homework is the same as an 3hp today because of the way they rated them back then. All parts are still interchangeable with todays saws. Mine also came with a unifence. The only difference is that the rpm is slower so I feed a tad slower.
mark
RPM on motor is slower, but the pully on the motor has, if original, a larger diameter so that the blade speed is the same. I know from my 1945 model, which works just fine.
That sounds like a good price, and those older model unisaws are some of the best table saws made. My college woodshop has one and it's one of the most solid, accurate, and reliable saws I've ever used... much better than anything you could buy new for $650.
I would look it over carefully, check the arbor assembly if possible, and then purchase it immediately before someone else does.
J, I can't see the fence clearly but with no rear rail it looks like a unifence-you will be thrilled. While the motor box is square -most later metal ones were rounder- it is an asset. You surely realize that it is a right tilt - a different concept from the late 90's on- but a super saw. 2 hp from that era is better than a new 3hp and you could always up grade as high as 5hp. GO FOR IT, they don't make em that way today. The worst case is you want (not need) to replace parts , maybe to the tune of 3-400 and you have the best there is compared to a new one at 2,000. Once you pull the top, and you will to clean and lube) you will see the absolutely massive castings (as big as your leg) to mount the trunnions. Let me know if your successful, I just finished upgrading my 1985 for dc and bigger fence. You could have the mother of all saws here. Paddy
ps. important, if you can lock it in get the ACTUAL mod # and ser# on the saw's plate , then go on line to get the date parts spec etc. or call cs and "sweetly" push your way past the bd folks looking for a UNISAW TECHNICIAN in Tenn. , they can help you with the date, specs, motors etc.
Thank you all for your input. I'm sad to say, I've decided to let the next person take it. The timing is simply bad, bad, bad. The saw was going to take some time to clean up (rust), build a new right extension for, etc. The electrician won't be putting 220 in for another couple of weeks, and when I broached the idea of the saw with hubby, he was not happy. The shop is so jam-packed now, it's going to be a struggle to find room for the electrician to work as it is, and hubby wasn't happy about me taking on a project tool at this point in time.
Part of me really wants the saw, but the other part knows that it's just not a good time to be taking it on. Oh well, I know more than I did two days ago. I'll print out the "look for this" lists and be ready when the next one comes along (that's optimism speaking). In the meantime, I'll spiff up the tools I'm selling to raise $$ and be ready for the next opportunity.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie !!!
This could be construed as cruel and unusual punishment , was this just some sick joke ?
Some of us are up in our years , this sort of taunt and heart pumping news is not to be taken lighty .
dusty ,,, the downtrodden
"...was this just some sick joke ?" So sorry, dusty. Not meant to be cruel.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie,
when I broached the idea of the saw with hubby, he was not happy
hubby wasn't happy about me taking on a project tool at this point in time.
C'mon girl! You have the upper hand. Sleep on the couch for a few days - I'm sure the hubby will go pick up the saw and clean the rust off of it! He'll probably even help you straighten the shop up. Ha Ha Ha
;)
Lee
"C'mon girl! You have the upper hand." I guess that may be true, but I'm trying not to abuse the situation, LOL!
When I was younger, I never paused in my impulsive moments to consider reality. Live and learn. I'm gonna send you an email with further details.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
My only other concern would be the dust collection. The picture shows what looks like one of those plastic DC parts attached to the back of the saw. Depending on the saw's internals, that may (or may not) be very efficient.
I've passed on the saw, guys, but others reading this thread may find the info useful when they are presented with an opportunity. The guy who owns it was a cabinetmaker. He had the DC set up pretty well, I think (ramp inside). There was a shroud for the blade, couldn't tell if that was OEM or an add-on (he bought it years ago from someone else).
He's living on his boat now, no room for the Unisaw, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
pick up one simular to the pictures 1.5hp 115 volts changes the fence to beis and put on a forrest blade--cut in my own vac system and just put on new belts the saw is great want to get the piece for inside to help vac system
JamieAre you still holding out for the SawStop? Given the accident recently reported in Knots, it has reminded me that my next saw will be a SS. We are having our church sanctuary remodeled right now, and I have seen saw usage that will curl your hair and make it stand on end. The contractor we hired is excellent, and they all wear hard hats and safety glasses at all times. But I've seen the job supervisor rip entire sheets of plywood with no blade guard, no splitter, no nothing. I literally had to turn my back--I couldn't stand to watch! I've seen our floor sub rip pieces 2" wide with no push stick, no splitter....you get the picture. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
Hi, Tom. I've wavered on holding out for the SawStop cabinet saw -- my saw is showing much the weaknesses of age -- and was going to go for one of the better hybrids. However, since SS is coming out (we hear -- again) with their contractor saw soon, I'm considering that. It's all budget constraints at this point.
It might be a little hard to go from a solid cast iron top to something with steel wings. And I was so looking forward to the "adjust the top" alignment mechanism of the right hybrid saw. However, it may be a small sacrifice to get the brake mechanism as a safety back-up.
Woodworking has taken a back seat recently to my re-entry into the horse training world, one I was ompletely immersed in for 15 years when I lived in California, and left after injury. I gave it a go this summer (after an 18-year hiatus!), found that my back can take it, and took on an assistant trainer position at a local dressage barn. Now that I'm riding and otherwise working 3-6 hours/day doing that, my time for WWing is pretty sparse, so I may not be all that "bothered" by using a contractor saw.
Still, would love to have that cabinet saw! Oh, well.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 10/12/2007 11:19 am by forestgirl
JamieCongrats on rejoining something you love. That's great. I've heard that the SS contractors saw will available with cast iron wings, as an option. Welcome back to the world of weekend/part time woodworking! Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
Thanks, Tom. I can't tell you how great it feels. If there's anything I was born to do, it's ride. I'm now riding 3-5 different horses every week, and catching up on all the experiences I missed when I was out for that 18 years. Next month, I'll be taking a clinic from a Danish riding master who comes here 2x/year (my friend and trainer is from Sweden and partners with him). Who knows, I might even do a little showing next year! (It's getting up at 3a.m. that makes that tough)
I'll bet I can get the cast-iron option from hubby for a Christmas present, if I fund the rest of the saw. I think I'll set my sights on that!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Go for it! You know you will NEVER be happy if you pass it up. Besides it gives you a trip to go chat with the owner! You may even be able to 'cut a deal'. Barter with some of the things you make!
If you don't buy it I will!!!
Sean
One precautionary item I'd add when contemplating a purchase of a tablesaw of this vintage is to check the tabletop for flatness. I've got an old Atlas from the 1950's that had been so used that lumber run over the top in the vicinity of the blade had dished it to the tune of about 25/1000ths. I had the top surface-ground, and that took the dish out, but it added $65.00 or so to the price (and this was years ago, so I'm sure the cost would be at least double now).
With the top dished that badly it was pretty difficult to get an accurate cut on anything. So, take a straightedge along if you're looking at older machinery like this...
Zolton * Some people say I have a problem because I drink hydraulic brake fluid. But I can stop any time I want.
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