Replies

1. 
   AlanWS | Dec 16, 2003 06:02am | #1

   I suspect it would hold with other sorts of glue, but Sys 3 and West are very strong. Regular epoxy would work too, but the the others would be better. The best way to do it is to mix up some epoxy and paint it on the wood. Be careful to get the ratio as close to what they specify as you can, and to mix it VERY well, since that will definitely affect the strength of the joint with any epoxy. This epoxy is much thinner than the regular glue, so it will soak into the wood, which makes for a very strong bond -- that's the advantage these epoxies have over regular epoxy glue. Keep adding it as long as it soaks in. But you need it thick to prevent it from dripping out of the joint, so while that is soaking in, you mix a thickener into the rest of the epoxy you mixed up. Microfibers, silica, or fine sawdust work as thickeners. When the thin stuff stops soaking in, wipe it off, slather the joint with thickened epoxy, and assemble the joint. Let it harden, and clean off any excess with a scraper before it reaches full strength (which happens gradually over about a week). This sort of mortise and tenon joint will hold for years in a canoe seat that gets wet and takes a fair amount of beating, as long as the wood is well finished to protect it from water.

1. 
   yotonyb | Dec 16, 2003 10:05pm | #2

   Have you dry-fit everything together?  Did you allow a little play in the mortise on your legs for the top and bottom rails?  This will allow you to assemble the spindles TIGHT to the top and bottom rails and still have some play for a smooth fit into the legs.

   Make sure you have clamps long enough to do this...good excuse to buy extra pipe clamps, black pipe threaded at both ends, and some threaded couplers

   Get a helper if possible.  I would do the sides first.  Work flat...get the spindles and top/bottom rails organized.  Glue and clamp the spindles to the rails, then glue the rails to the legs.  Clamp firmly, clean-up and call it a day.

   Do the back next...same as the sides.  Layout the spindles and rails in the correct order.  Glue and clamp the the spindles to the rails, then bring the sides together with the back assembly and the front rail.  Clamp firmly, clean up and call it a day.

   Avoid the temptation to do it ALL in one day!  Take the extra time to do it in stages.

   I can vouch for the quality of the System Three.  Wear gloves when handling the epoxy.  Be precise in the proportions, whether it's 2:1 or 1:1, just be sure that it's done in precise proportions.  Mix thoroughly.  I would stir for one minute, let it rest for one minute, then stir for another minute.  If you have a firm fit in your mortise and tenons, it won't take much for a durable glue bond.  Avoid using too much glue.  Given the number of spindles, and the narrow gap between them, you'd like to do as much as possible to keep that stuff from dripping everywhere.

   Yellow glue would also work for this.  In fact, I'd recommend the Titebond brown tinted glue.

   Good luck and good skill!  I'll ask again...could you post pictures of the finished piece?

   tony b.

   Edited 12/16/2003 2:09:27 PM ET by YOTONYB

1. 
   prairiescl | Dec 17, 2003 02:59am | #3

   Should I not glue the spindles to the top rail? The spindles are not really meant to be structural, but if glued, any flex in the lower rail will flex the upper rail and therefore the top board. Together they make a nice T-beam, but I don't want anything fatiguing loose on the top. The bottom of each spindle has a shoulder, while the top has none, fitting the full cross section of the spindle into the mortise.

   The lower edge of the lower side rail is meant to be curved. I have no bandsaw, my jig saw is not up to the task, so I was thinking of using a router, either with a template and guide bushing or a straight bit and using a stout piece of fiberglass restrained at the ends and pulled in the center to act as a guide. I'm concerned with tear-out since the bit has to be working against the grain on half of the cut. The climb cut on the other half bears the risk ofgetting away and doing damage. I could leave it straight instead of risking the work I've invested so far. Any suggestions?

   Thanks,

   Scott