I work at a large “big box” home improvement store,and a customer came in looking for advice on an intriqing project.
He had built a cedar sauna. Dry heat and modified for additional heat. He wanted to complete the setup with a T & G cedar lined shower area along side it. The shower would not be used for washing.
The idea was to step out of the sauna (dry heat) and immediatly into a cold shower. The problem was what, if anything should be used to seal the cedar in the shower area.
Spar varnish? Rubbed in teak or tung oil? An exterior oil? Nothing at all?
His concern was that the wood would discolor or begin to mildew or otherwise decay from being in a constantly wet enviroment.
We tossed this about quite awhile and couldn’t come up with a definitive solution other than if you do seal it with something you should seal all sides before installation and maybe run a fine bead of clear silicone along each T&G joint to prevent water from getting inside them.
We were in uncharted water as neither of us had ever encountered a usage like this.
Any ideas on this?
TIA
Replies
The walls of our main bathroom (the actual room where bathtub baths and showers are taken) are covered with the same WRC paneling that lines our living room cathedral ceiling. The bathroom is finished with a Japanese outdoor stain+preservative called Washin Guardlac. It's been 8 years since we built it, and it's done well everywhere except right around the faucet handles, where some discoloration has occurred due to constant water splashing and humidity. I've refinished that small area only one time in the 8 years and it looks very good.
Letting is age naturally is one alternative, although WRC will tend to turn black rather than the nice gray of redwood. If that doesn't appeal, I'd try one of the standard outdoor preservative stains; my favorite these days is a German brand called Xyledecor, but I imagine most any similar U.S. product (Thompsons, etc.) would serve similarly. (A lot of the damage done to outdoor furniture and decks is from UV radiation, and since that's obviated inside an enclosed shower or bathroom, it should hold up pretty well).
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TIA,
I would probably seal the wood completely with epoxy. A gallon of epoxy (with catalyst, obviously) would be plenty.
The advantages of epoxy are many in a wet environment like yours:
It is not difficult to apply. You can apply it with a paint roller. Clean up is easy--you just toss everything.
Sealing the wood completely will encapsulate it with an impermeable layer. No water could get to the wood to rot or discolor it.
Because the wood would be sealed there would be absolutely no seasonal movement. You could make any kind of joints or construction method with everything seated tight because you know the wood will not move. You could even do frame and panel and glue everything.
Epoxy is non-toxic after it has been cured.
Epoxy makes a very appealing finish on wood. You can rub it out to about any degree of gloss you want (give it a month or so to cure completely before you rub it out). There is no need to use any further product, though you could use spar varnish if you want to.
The only negatives are that it can be a bit messy. Wear old clothes or an apron or coveralls. Be prepared to toss them after you're finished. Also, you have to remember that if the capsule is pierced for any reason (to install a towel rack, a hook for a back brush, etc.) you must reseal the wood with epoxy. (That is very easy to do. A little set of five-minute epoxy is all that would be needed.) The only difficulty is to remember to do it. (I find the best way to install something that has something that has to go into the wood--e.g. a screw--is to drill a hole a size or two larger than the screw, fill the hole with epoxy and then just push the screw into the hole. That way the wood will be resealed and the screw will be held in place by the epoxy--which is stronger than a screw in wood.)
Sorry for the sermon. If you want to learn more about wood/epoxy check out The Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction at the library.
Alan
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