Replies

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Nov 06, 1999 04:51am | #1

   *
   Consider urea formaldehyde. This should work because it has good moisture resistance and doesn't suffer from creep.

   Resicornal formaldehyde is even tougher, but leaves a dark line, so probably wouldn't suit.

   Epoxy resin is another option. Some leave a dark line, and other formulations don't. It's not too fond of severe shock, but I wouldn't see this being a major problem here (unless the board's dropped a few times from a great height! How clumsy is the cook?!)

   On the whole, I'd go for the first choice. I've used it successfully on wooden draining boards and in other high moisture circumstances. (Boat builders use it a lot, so that tells you something.)

1. 
   Bob_Berner | Nov 08, 1999 11:01pm | #2

   *What about type II yellow glue? I realize that it isn't waterproof, but do people realy submerge thier wooden cutting boards? At most it should see a wiping with a soapy dishcloth, a rinse, and then either drip dry in a vertical position or dried with a towel. I wouldn't think that there would be enough time for the water to penetrate and weaken the glue bond. Also if you are getting it wet enough for the glue to be weakened, the finhish must be shot by then. I have used wood cutting boards, but I have yet to make any. Just my two cents worth.Bob

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Nov 09, 1999 06:06am | #4

   *I'd hazard any PVA is not an ideal choice. Whilst I agree that a cutting board should not suffer from major water contact, submersion, etc., there is more than enough contact. This encourages timber movement, and PVA suffers from creep. I suspect that PVA would probably be okay, but the minor extra effort of mixing urea formaldehyde is worth it. PVA, by the way is generally poor for bent laminate work- creep again.

1. 
   Jed_C. | Nov 10, 1999 02:28am | #5

   *I glued up a cutting board more than 20 years ago, using generic yellow glue, then finished it with a few coats of mineral oil. It has been subjected to moderate to heavy use in a busy kitchen, often wiped with a wet sponge and dripped on by the hot tops of steaming pans. In all that time, I can remember once scraping the top down to bare wood and refinishing with a good mineral oil soaking. That's it--no other finish, no special treatment--and those glue joints look as tight now as they did the day I made it.

1. 
   Dave_Wright_ | Nov 10, 1999 04:01pm | #6

   *I've made quite a few boards with Titebond II. One of them is the only cutting board we use. It's held together perfectly for the few years since I made it. It's only 5/8" thick; I would think the glue would be even more reliable at more normal thicknesses like 3/4 and up. I specifically chose Type II PVA because I feel better about eating bits of it as the board wears than bits of other glues. It's pretty nontoxic.

2. 
   Dave_Wright_ | Nov 10, 1999 04:53pm | #7

   *Addendum.I recommend biscuits for cutting board joints. They give a substantial measure of joint strength insurance. That's another reason to use Type II PVA - biscuits need water-based glues like PVA to work properly. I know...you can spray a little water on the biscuits and use a glue without water content, but I've heard of failures when this approach was taken.The best solution may depend on your production situation. I think mass produced cutting boards probably use something like urea. Their lines probably include long strips of stock, efficient urea mixing and application, huge clamp assemblies (heated?), wide belt sanding, and finally whacking out and finishing the boards. Very efficient, and with reliable results. If making just a few in a small shop, I would go with Type II PVA and biscuits. Best of luck with the boards, whichever way you go.

3. 
   Richard_Stoner | Nov 19, 1999 12:48am | #8

   *Got to agree with Jed C and Dave Wright. I had students make cuttiing boards my first year of teaching (1985) and I bought one of them. They used yellow glue and I have had mine submerged in water for washing numerous times over the years in addition to the general wiping. We get real fussy about cleaning it when we cut up a chicken on it!! While I'm sure the urea's are a better glue, I think the aliphatic resins are safer and nearly as effective for the purpose.

4. 
   Bob_Berner | Nov 08, 1999 11:01pm | #3

   *What about type II yellow glue? I realize that it isn't waterproof, but do people realy submerge thier wooden cutting boards? At most it should see a wiping with a soapy dishcloth, a rinse, and then either drip dry in a vertical position or dried with a towel. I wouldn't think that there would be enough time for the water to penetrate and weaken the glue bond. Also if you are getting it wet enough for the glue to be weakened, the finhish must be shot by then. I have used wood cutting boards, but I have yet to make any. Just my two cents worth.Bob

5. 
   Dan_Turner | Jan 28, 2001 09:37pm | #9

   *i absolutley swear by Gorilla glue. its impervious to moisture, stronger than yellow glue, and fills in minor imperfections. ive made several cutting boards with gorilla glue and biscuits, just make sure you wipe all the glueing surfaces with a damp cloth.

6. 
   Warren_Aut | Feb 04, 2001 08:03pm | #10

   *Planning on laying up three cutting boards for a custom kitchen cabinet with Gorilla glue and biscuits. Do you have any suggestions on the or a "floating cutting board end" Looking to maintain flatness. Planning on 4 quarter "hard rock maple, random width, approximately 3 by 2 feet.

7. 
   Bill_Sutton | Feb 08, 2001 07:48pm | #11

   *What is good source for urea formaldehyde glue or plastic resin? I seem to recall that at one time you could buy it through woodworking catalogs and hardware stores. But recently I looked couldn't find it.

8. 
   CStanford_ | Feb 09, 2001 03:01am | #12

   *Slightly off the subject, but one should always have two cutting boards - one for meats and one for everything else. The meat will ultimately get cooked so if the cutting board is contaminated you have a second line of defense. The second board is for vegetables and stuff that may not get cooked. Chance of food poisoning is nil with the two board system.

9. 
   Charles_M._Hohenberg | Mar 29, 2001 10:22pm | #13

   *Hi Sgian, I have a related question. I a beginning woodworker (picking up on retirement a hobby I enjoyed while in school) and my first major project is a large (50" x 80") butcher block table. As a warmup, I made a butcher block cutting board (14 x 18 x 1 3/4 thick") using alternating strips (1 /3/4 wide) of red and white oak. It looks very nice. I joined the strips with biscuits and glue (Titebond II). I gather from the discussion that this is not the best choice for glue. I will use urea formaldehyde folr the table (thanks)! My question is the glued surface ... I have a new Forrest WWII blade that leaves a glassy smooth and flat surface. Is this the best for glue, or should I try to "rough up" the oak before I clamp it together? Thanks for all the wisdom and encouragement you have given this panel!! Charles