Replies

1. 
   Routerman | Sep 10, 2007 10:24pm | #1

   Indeed, & in critcal applications.

   What? Borden's yellow carpenter glue.

2. 
   dherzig | Sep 10, 2007 10:26pm | #2

   Made a table top  24X58 and just used the standard yellow PVA glue. Held well. Although I had no scientific reason to do so, I swiped the edges with acetone as one would do with teak, just in case.

1. 
   oldusty | Sep 11, 2007 03:16am | #7

   dherzig ,

              What brand glue did you use ?

                thanks      dusty

1. 
   dherzig | Sep 11, 2007 04:41am | #12

   Titebond II.

3. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 10, 2007 10:30pm | #3

   I use Jatoba and Purpleheart quite often. I use Tilebond II or Gorilla glue. I try to glue fresh cuts if possible and wipe the surface of the joints to be glued with Lacquer thinner. I would think you could also wipe the surfaces with acetone.

   I never have any joint failures (that I know of). If you have never used Jatoba, be SURE to wear a face mask and be sure to use a dust mask. Jatoba throws sharp little splinters at your face when sawing on the TS. It also can splinter badly when routing!

   For what it is worth, I find a lot of reaction wood when ripping a wider stick into thinner sticks. It can twist and turn and grab your saw blade (As in KICKBACK!).

1. 
   Jimma | Sep 10, 2007 10:58pm | #4

   I can understand the value of using purpleheart for color. What is the reason for using Jatoba?

1. 
   oldusty | Sep 11, 2007 03:30am | #9

     Hi Jimma ,

        Do you not think Jatoba has swirling grain and interesting color variation ?

                      dusty

1. 
   Jimma | Sep 11, 2007 04:41pm | #17

   Just don't know. Never used it. Sounds interesting, though.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 11, 2007 04:46am | #13

   As one post stated. Jatoba has swirling grain and interesting color variation. In fact you can find boards that have hardly any grain to ones that look like a blender was inside the tree. The boards vary in color, grain and I guess I have fun picking through the racks.As to why I really use it.. I guess I just like the color and grain variations and it finishes well. I'm not good at finishing or at least I do not have the room to do it right. I work in a very small garage and have to 'make do' all the time. Dang..Also, the price is sort of reasonable.I'm sure I will have to stop using the Jatoba and Purpleheart because I am getting (is) sensitized to both.

1. 
   Jimma | Sep 11, 2007 04:48pm | #18

   Guess I've been lost in space when it comes to exotics. There's a great local dealer, though, so I'll have a tour one day. (I'm off my feet for a while with a knee problem.)

2. 
   oldusty | Sep 11, 2007 03:28am | #8

     Hey Will ,

                Heck , now you got me all nervous , about this stuff .

                       I do remember you talking about using Jatoba recently .

              I have heard to use Acetone but had never heard of using Lacquer thinner , I have that on hand .Would you say the Gorilla glue is better then Titebond 2 ?

                    In the old day's we used to call wood that moved as you cut it Timber Bound , now it is called stress wood or Reaction wood , no matter what you call it , it is what it is and it's no picnic to use .

         Thank you for the reply

                          regards           dusty

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 11, 2007 04:50am | #14

   Would you say the Gorilla glue is better then Titebond 2 ?If I laminate strips I use Gorilla glue. Not sure if I really need to use it though. The Gorilla glue leaves a brown glue line and with the color of Jatoba it is not to noticeable.

4. 
   Napie | Sep 10, 2007 10:58pm | #5

   I just glued up my first Bamboo backed Ipe longbow, it is much like Jatoba.  I used Tightbond III as was recomended by a lot of bowyers and so far so good..

1. 
   oldusty | Sep 11, 2007 03:14am | #6

   Hi Napie ,

            Thanks for your respnose , with the TB 3 did you do a slovent wipe ?

                       dusty

1. 
   Napie | Sep 11, 2007 03:44am | #10

   No, just had to make sure there is a very tight fit to the joint, since this is 70” by 1 ½”, I used inner tube strips as clamps.  Also, this stuff cures in the absence of oxygen so the squeeze out remains soft.  

    

   I figure if it can withstand the 55# draw in the bow it must be pretty good stuff.  It is my first bow without fiberglass though so we’ll se how it works.

1. 
   oldusty | Sep 11, 2007 04:16am | #11

   Just for some fun I have been making bows also , but these bows are for  starting  fires as in bow and drill .

       I have been experimenting for a year or so and use either Maple or Oak strips glued to a form with lots of clamps , then I sand the inside and the outside of the curved area to add some flex .

      Long bows must be a huge challenge to build , but a joy to use one you made.

                     thanks                  dusty

1. 
   Napie | Sep 11, 2007 05:14am | #15

   So far not to bad, in fact it is really low tech woodworking, very basic.  The hard part is the tillering and that is just eyeball and feel.  Arrows look like another matter all together…

   <!----><!----> <!---->

   Here’s a good site:

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   http://www.rudderbows.com/

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2. 
   oldusty | Sep 11, 2007 06:52am | #16

     I have heard Port Orford Cedar is the wood of choice for shafts . An old timer I know once owned an arrow mill down in Powers Oregon close to the coast and where the trees grew .

       There are some locals currently making arrows as well , lotsa bucks from what I have heard .

         Nice site , thanks for the link .

                           dusty