Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Jun 04, 2004 09:10am | #1

   That sure is pretty wood. I think lace wood might be too close in character. I was just in a posh office that had amboyna paneling accented with leather. I would go either lighter or darker for the contrast. You don't need a lot of wood for the project so mail ordering from anywhere should be no problem. One thing you may want to think about is the jewelry. It's not very convenient to toss a bunch of earings, bracelets and necklaces into a drawer. I compartmentalized my wifes somewhat, lined the drawers with padded velvet and had a necklace hanging area. There are trays available that you may want to use and design the case around. Here is a site with more woods than you'll ever find. I would not rule out birdseye maple or pear for light colors.

   http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 04, 2004 04:17pm | #2

   Hammer,

   Thanks for the link, thats one I haven't seen yet.  Maple is the color I'd like, and birdseye would look nice, but... I might end up using maple.  I wonder if the pinkish color of pear would look good as a contrast?  The organizing points are well taken.  Her present box suffers from those problems.  I was thinking small compartments in the drawers, and I like the hanging necklace idea.  I know there is some clever hardware out there to do that. 

   Amboyna and leather?  Hate to foot that bill.  Bet it looked good though.Steve

2. 
   rholland54 | Jun 04, 2004 11:28pm | #3

   I would consider using Satinwood,  it has nice depth when finished and is light colored.   I have only used it in veneer form so I'm not sure of the availability of lumber.    

   Robert

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 05, 2004 05:19am | #7

   Robert,

   Nice color, and I know were there is some boards, maybe....

   Thanks for the suggestion,Steve

3. 
   wop | Jun 05, 2004 12:32am | #4

       Let me get this strait .... You're going to waste wood like that on the wife?.... Man you must really love this woman!

                                                        Philip

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 05, 2004 05:27am | #8

   I just got off the phone with her, and am now questioning my sanity.  She may have just earned herself a jewelry cabinet made of that old pile of partially rotten junk 2x4's laying out by the shop.  Cripes that woman! 

   That sapele would look good as a humidor or something for me wouldn't it? :)  Phillip, you're a bad influence.Steve

4. 
   DaveHeinlein | Jun 05, 2004 02:27am | #5

   A couple woods come to mind, given your guidelines. There is quarter sawn Sycamore, which has a Lacewood look to it, but on a smaller scale, and American Beech, Also quartered. The Beech reaches into some very nice pink shades, and also has small attractive flecking.

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 05, 2004 05:35am | #9

   Hey Dave,

   I like the idea of the small flecks, they would have to be pretty small though.  I suppose that varies board to board, I'll look around.  I've never worked with the quartered Sycamore, don't even know if I've seen it.  I like American Beech, and I think that may be just what I'm looking for.  Not very exotic sounding, but I think its the new front runner.  Thanks.Steve

5. 
   robkelly | Jun 05, 2004 02:37am | #6

   I'd consider yellowheart or purpleheart. I just put the third coat of finish on a figured honduras mahogany table top, 68" x 41", which I banded with 5/8" of yellowheart and 7/8" of purpleheart outside the yellowheart. The plain but bright colors really set off the figure on the brown wood.

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 05, 2004 05:41am | #10

   Hey Rob,

   I tried to talk her into Yellowheart, but she said "I want light".  I thought yellow was a light color, but you know women and colors.  Those two would really contrast nicely with the sapele I bet. 

   What did you finish the table with?Steve

1. 
   robkelly | Jun 06, 2004 04:43am | #12

    Steve, I used gloss Deft put on with a brush. I don't have a sprayer, and if this was a  table for formal use I'd have sent the top out for finishing. Since it's for casual lunches and a general work surface in the lab of a plumbing manufacturing company for whom I do some engineering and investigative work, I built this out of scraps as a surprise for them. By scraps I mean some pieces are only 12" long. The small pieces are cut at 45* for an end joint, and then glued up to a full length 2" board. This gives me a bunch of full length 5" or 6" boards which I then mill and glue for the top. It used up most of those "save me because I've got such great figure" pieces which were too small to do anything with. Legs are camphor (from an otherwise useless slab which was taking up space) and the aprons are alder.

   I'm going to let the third coat cure for a few more days, the take it down to a satin finish by hand with 0000 steel wool.

   Yellow is a light color. Run some thru the planer and show her what it looks like next to the sapelé.  Rob

1. 
   Fingrs | Jun 06, 2004 05:40am | #13

   I'm playing around with spray Deft on a scrap of tiger maple.  The first coat really raised the grain which I knocked off with 320 grit paper.  I applied the second coat a few minutes ago.  When done I'll post the results if I can get a reasonable photo.  I'm looking for a good lacquer finish for a guitar hence the experiment.  Is it true that spray Deft is a nitrocelulose lacquer? 

1. 
   robkelly | Jun 07, 2004 04:34am | #14

   I called the company a couple of years ago and they said that even though nitrocellulose was no longer listed on the label that it was the same as the old stuff. It seems to me that the new stuff doesn't cut ino the earlier coats as well as the old stuff did, so maybe the solvent(s) have changed. I use a 320 sanding sponge between coats. The above refers to the brush on; I don't know anythig about the spray.

6. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 05, 2004 08:37am | #11

   LOL, too late, I already blew that one. 

   Nicely done Hammer, I like the proportions.  What are the rough dimensions?  Judging by the necklace, looks about right to be functional.  Where did you put the music box?  I don't see the key. 

   I don't think I've ever seen a 1/2" thick 1/4" inset hinge either.  Better quality control if you roll your own, right?  I just found some quarter sawn sycamore, I think I'll buy.  Probably use beech for the drawers though,as I've never worked sycamore, and I agree with you, beech is easy to work. 

   Steve
1. 
   hammer1 | Jun 07, 2004 06:23am | #15

   The size of the cabinet is 5 1/2" x 12 1/2" x 22 1/2". Base and cornice project 1 1/2". Drawers are 2 1/2" deep, the necklace area is 12 1/2" tall. I used the carrousels from Rockler, most necklaces hang about 8"-9". The key for the music box is in the back, opening the bottom drawer activates it. I had to do some modifications to the activator spring also. The key is mounted on a threaded stud, lucky for me a key type lamp switch is threaded the same. My precision planning stalled the project several times. The upper area has a mirror back, to protect it I covered it with matte board and then covered the whole back with a hand made art paper. On special gifts I have the local sports trophy shop engrave a small plaque, costs next to nothing for the hugs it gets. I don't normaly work on smaller scale items. My cutters are more suited to 3/4" plus stock. I thought the proportions were off, the base is heavy but it does keep the cabinet rock solid. By the way I've been doing some bending lately, let me know if you want to talk. Good luck.

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 07, 2004 04:10pm | #16

   Morning Hammer,

   What are you bending?  I'm not sure that I'll go this way on this project, but it's an idea at least.  One of the issues I see are, does figured wood bend like straight grained wood?  I'd think the fibers are interwoven on figured grain which would make it hard to steam bend.  I was thinking to get around this issue, to use a substrate to laminate, something with calm peaceful grain, then verneer over it.  It would still be a tight bend, so trial and error I suppose, maybe steam bend the substrate laminations?  This gives rise to another issue.  An exposed laminated edge on the front of the carcass.  I'd given consideration to covering it with ebony, which I've never bent either.  What do you think?

   I'm used to the bigger stuff too, fact my last major project was a big gazebo, I'm looking forward to something that actually fits on the assembly table.  It might end up being one of those projects that I learn a lot from.

   Clever on the music box, fun to do those no plan projects periodically, but not all the time!  I've been thinking of getting the solid modeler software from Bridge City, might make a better product?  Steve

1. 
   AlanTurner | Jun 07, 2004 08:49pm | #18

   Dirt,

   Brazillan Satinwood is a pale yellow, with a nice, even texture and grain. Yellowheart is not only more intese in color, but has early and late wood grain, sort of ash-like. Satinwood would make for smooth sliding drawers. Groff & Groff has it in stock (saw a buch there Sat.) in 8/4, and they will gladly ship. Jsut call them and tell them what you need. 717-284-0001. They have an 800# also, but I don't recall it.Alan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 08, 2004 03:36pm | #21

   Thanks for the lead Alan, I'll certainly give them a ring.  Might be an expensive phone call. heheheSteve

2. 
   AlanTurner | Jun 08, 2004 05:26pm | #23

   Dirt,

   Groff has Yellowheart in stock also, and neither wood is too expensive. If all you need is sides for a jewlery box drawer, then you don't need mcuh at all. If they have a 12' board, you can buy just 4' from them. They will cut, as long as what is left is useful for them Good guys at Groff.

   AlanAlan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

3. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 09, 2004 08:27am | #25

   Alan,

   I meant to call them today, but too busy farming.  Hopefully tomorrow.  I'm going to ask about prices on ebony too.  Any ideas what the going price on ebony is now?  Just glancing at some on Ebay, and prices range from cheep to pricey.  I actually bid a fairly large board up, but didn't get it.  I'll call Groff, bet I'd end up with a sure thing that way.Steve

4. 
   AlanTurner | Jun 09, 2004 04:23pm | #27

   Dirt,

   As of last Sat. a.m., the stock on Ebony was a bit low. I think it was $60 a b.f., which is up from the $40 they were at a couple of months ago. They said that their prices had increased. I saw better prices on the righteous hardwwods site for Ebony, but I have never dealt with them. As to Ebony, it is so expensive that I don't think I would buy it sight unseen. Ebony can be twisty, and split, and if so is less valuable, of course. But, the only shop I know that cuts their own ebony is Hearne Hardwoods, which is on the web, and I think that they might be OK to deal with by phone on Ebony. They are not cheap, but their inventory is staggering in terms of the imported woods. Rick Hearne travels about a third of the year on buying trips, as I understand it. I was down there a couple of eyars ago, and he had some 3/8" thick ebony, with wane, as sort of "scrap" at $3 a pound, and I bough 11 pounds. I am still kicking myself that I did not buy more as I am now running a bit low, and the prices are way up.

   AlanAlan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

2. 
   hammer1 | Jun 08, 2004 04:09am | #19

   Hi Steve,

   Right now I'm bending some beaded edge moulding for some arch top window trim. I'm doing the interior work on a timber frame, nice house with a fair amount of custom stuff. There are 14 arch tops ranging in size from 36" to 96" in diameter, six different sizes. Red oak as usual. The ones downstairs are part of an intergrated raised panel wainscotting. The smaller windows worked out as 1/2 an octagon, 4 segments of 1x6. These formed the flat board part of the casing and I've been wrapping them inside and out with the bead. The inside bead is 5/16" x 11/16". The outer 7/16" x 3/4". I'm steaming these and pressing everything in a sandwich form. Suprising how much stronger the larger pieces are only 1/8" thicker. When steaming, if your proportions are much more than 1 to 1.5 you stand a good chance of them bellying. I did some 1/2" x 1 1/4" a while ago and they were a pain. I've also done laminated work without steaming. On some circular stairs, I glued 3/4" x 1 1/2" oak edges to nice spruce 2x12s and veneered the faces. The 2x was resawn and sized on a Timesaver sander. With these wide thin pieces the thinner the better. I think this would be the only feasable way to deal with your sapele. You could always segment your edge treatment after. I would be prepared for some suprises though. things can break or twist and you won't know until it comes out of the form. Time consuming but a step above the ordinary.

   I attended some classes on Autocad back around release 12. I haven't seen the software you mention. Most of what's out there is fairly dedicated, kitchens, floor plans, etc. Autocad and the various associated programs are not easy for me. I still think the elevations look cartoonish. For most of my projects I do a full scale shop layout anyway, even if it's just a simple story pole. By the time I get a program figured out, not that I ever have, I could build two. I've got a new Mac and not much is available for me.

   The small scale stuff is great fun. I plan on doing more as time allows. Sure would be nice to have a little elbow room in the shop and to use more exotic materials in small quantities. No where near as much good hardware available though. Probably why so many make their own. Later.

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 08, 2004 04:57pm | #22

   Thanks for the excellent advice Hammer.  I might have a few more questions for you when it comes time to start this thing.  My bending experience is not very expansive. 

   That software caught my eye, just because it dosn't have that cartoon look, but I think it's capibilities are more in line with single projects, like turned vases.  Could be wrong there, the 800 or so it costs would buy a bunch of nice lumber. Steve

7. 
   CajunDan | Jun 07, 2004 08:47pm | #17

   That is beautiful wood. I would tend toward something unfigured and bland for the drawer sides, so as to focus attention on the sapele. Maple would be my first choice. It would also contrast well with the ebony accents you plan.

   Good luck,

   Dan

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 08, 2004 03:33pm | #20

   Morning Dan,

   I'm getting behind in my responses, but better late then never, right? 

   Maple was my first instinct too, but then I got to thinking, wouldn't this be the perfect oportunity to use something exotic?  Seems like I use maple all the time compared to yellowheart, satinwood, lacewood or even quartered sycamore.  Plus where I live, maple is priced like an exotic for some reason.  I still haven't ruled it out.  I've got some quartered sycamore, and some satinwood on the way.  I'll dig up some yellowheart before its all said and done too.  Steve

1. 
   CajunDan | Jun 08, 2004 05:34pm | #24

   Thanks.

   Yes, I get tired of the same wood over and over, too. Quartersawn sycamore looks a lot like lacewood, but if you found a piece with very small flecks, it might be a good match without clashing too much. What you want to avoid using is a very similar color or pattern to the sapele.

   Try taking a piece of your sapele board to the lumberyard to compare next to their lumber until you get a match.

   Regardless whatever you do, I'm sure it will be beautiful.

   Dan

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Jun 09, 2004 08:31am | #26

   "Regardless whatever you do, I'm sure it will be beautiful."

   Thanks for the confidence Dan, but I'm quite adept at ugly projects.  You should see my first dresser.  I see it every day, constant reminder too plan better. 

   Good advice, thanks.Steve