I’ve got four good sized boards (8’x2″x10″) of mahogany or is it sapele? in the workshop been there for the last two+ years and the grain is just amazing very tight/interlocked burr. I’d like to build a smallish cabinet. I recognise that the wood will present me a serious challenge so I’ve experimented with and off cut to establish the best way to work the surface. Thus far everything I’ve done with it plucks chunks out of the surface…..If at all possible I’d like to avoid sanding as I much prefer the clarity and sharpness produced by a planed finish. I’ve tried a Planer thicknesser, an L-N112, a York pitch and a hand scraper the latter producing most success. Any thoughts ?
kind regards Iain
Replies
Sapele can be frustrating to work... it's really fragile. I got best results by closing the throats of my planes down to around 3 thou... sharpening the blades with a very slight radius to them and taking real light shavings.. Had to keep the blades real sharp to avoid tear out.. Try to do the buld of the work by working across the grain, with the plane skewed aggressivly; get the physics working for you. I was using a standard angle #5 & #7 and a york pitch #4 1/2... it took a little time but the results were worth it..
For the thicknesser, try lightly damping the surface before each pass and take very light passes.
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Edited 9/22/2004 3:55 pm ET by Mike
Mike
thanks for your tips....I tried to get a photo of the wood onto my message but try as I might it just would'nt attach....The wood hasn't got the normal longitudinal interlocked grain that I would normally associate with Sapele, but presents itself at the surface as a totally irregular tight burr almost a snake skin type pattern...so there doesn't appear to be a cross grain to it
Any thoughts on getting a digital image on here would be appreciated
take care. Iain
can't help with the pic I'm afraid... never been able to attach one myself...Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
I guess thats why we choose to work wood.....these computer thing's freak me out...Iain
Iain,
Below the area where you compose a post to the forum is a button (Attach Files) for attaching digital images. Folow the instructions on the pop-up window that appears when you click the button. First, you browse for the file on your computer. Then click the 'Upload' button and WAIT -- comments from others on the Forums indicate they have trouble because they don't wait for the upload to finish. When the upload is complete, your filename will show in the middle of the pop-up window. Add other files, if you wish, then click 'Done' when you are finished.
Regards,
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
Edited 9/23/2004 6:14 am ET by BArnold
Mike/s and Bill thanks for the thoughts....I'm gonna try Bills image load direction and let you see this wood........cheers...Iain
Iain,
Congratulations! I'm no expert, but I do have some sapele pomelle veneer (see attached image) and it's more of a medium brown whereas your image has a lot of red in it. My guess is that your veneer is quilted mahogany.
Regards,Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
Hey Bill this might well be veneer stock but I'm dealing with 4 x 2" thick boards with this pattern running throughout excepting about a 1.5' section where it returns to a more recognisable grain structure...!
Iain, I have good success handplaning flame crotch mahogany. I use a homemade jack plane, very tight mouth, thin shavings and the iron is straight across , although as one person posted a small crown at the ends of the iron may be helpful in preventing scoring lines.Then finish up with a scraper, I use the card type of scraper. A scraper plane may be a good way to finish up, I have never had the opportunity to use one myself.
mike
Good luck.
I built a computer desk last year with a figured sapele top. I tried planing and scraping it to the best of my ability. Anyway, by the time I had sanded out all the tearout, the top was much thinner than I had hoped.
I think I would have had a much thicker top if I had given up my pride and sanded to begin with.
I hope you have better luck (or sense).
Regards,
Dan
Dan I a'int resigned to sanding yet I'll keep trying to figure a setup based on Bill and Mikes suggestions......cheers Iain
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