Replies

1. 
   NASCAR | Feb 23, 2005 11:34pm | #1

   I personally use Elmers and Gorilla Glue.  The Elmers is for the basics and easy to clean.  Gorilla glue is definitely strong and will hold almost anything.  It sticks to everything too, especially your skin, a pack of latex gloves is a must.  It also has the tendency to expand while your not looking and then get rock hard.  A simple twice over with hand scraper and follow-up with a light sand and it's gone.  Just make sure everything is in place, no second chances.

1. 
   Malloy2536 | Feb 25, 2005 12:14am | #5

   You said that you use gorilla glue do you know if it stains the wood like yellow glue does? I ask because I've heard it expanse a great deal.

1. 
   NASCAR | Feb 25, 2005 01:50am | #6

   I've used it on cherry, oak and walnut.  It does slightly discolor if you only wipe it off.  If you scrape off the excess when it is hard, then lightly sand it does not discolor.

2. 
   Malloy2536 | Feb 28, 2005 05:13am | #11

   Thanks for all the information . I think I'm going to try the gorilla glue .

1. 
   WayneL5 | Mar 01, 2005 07:14am | #12

   Don't get it on your hands.  It will not come off till it wears off.

   Spread it thin, a little goes a long way.

2. 
   WayneL5 | Feb 24, 2005 03:34am | #2

   Any of the yellow carpenter glues or polyurethane glues are good.  There is a good article in the current issue of Fine Woodworking comparing half a dozen glues.

3. 
   MarkRD | Feb 24, 2005 06:58pm | #3

   I use two Polyurethane (Gorillia or Elmers) or Elmers Carpenter glue. I I use the carpenter's glue stricly for wood, and the gorilla for plastic and wood that has been glued before but broke at the joint or joints that need to be REALLY strong.
   Mark

4. 
   sedna | Feb 24, 2005 07:56pm | #4

   You just lucked out Red. The latest Fine Woodworking contains a whole article on glues.
   Keith

5. 
   rrdesigns | Feb 25, 2005 04:41am | #7

   A little goes a long way with Gorilla Glue, wet your surface first and spread a thin layer of glue on your joint. After it sets up, scrape off any glue that has swelled out of the joint.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/24/2005 8:42 pm ET by rrdesigns

6. 
   woodensplinter | Feb 26, 2005 01:49am | #8

   I've used PVA glues, for indoor projects, almost exclusively for years and will continue to do so.  I've only used polyurethane for outdoor furniture projects.  I just don't like the stuff so I only use it when I need to.  I'm actually kind of surprised to see how many people seem to use it on a regualr basis.  I guess if you like it, use it.  I don't, so I won't.

1. 
   MarkRD | Feb 26, 2005 11:38pm | #9

   I'm curious, why don't you care for the poly glue and tell us more about the PVA - perhaps you'll create some converts...Thanks
   Mark

1. 
   woodensplinter | Feb 27, 2005 11:54am | #10

   With PVA I find I have:

   Fast set up times.  After 30 minutes I remove the clamps on small pieces.  On large pieces I'll wait an hour.

   Easy clean up.  Wait until squeeze out begins to harden and chisel it off.  A bit of sanding and your done.

   Sufficient strength.  In just about all the pieces I've broken apart the wood has failed, not the glue.  For additional strength some form of additional joinery or mechanical fastening is required.

   Low cost.

   Complicated projects require you to break things down into smaller sub-assemblies which are then combined.  Extended open time formulas are available but I haven't tried them.  I don't have as many clamps as Norm so sometimes I have to have a cup of coffee and watch the glue dry.

   Excellent shelf life.  I found a bottle of glue on a shelf (behind a bunch of junk) that was a few years old.  Used it up without incident.

   With its short shelf life and high cost, I use polyurethane as a specialty glue.  I've probably thrown away more of this stuff than I've actually used.

   What glues do I use.  Mostly Lee Valley 2002GF.  Also use Elmer's or LePages if I run out.  (Live out in the boonies so the LV stuff isn't readily available).

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 08, 2005 04:13pm | #15

   Hi W.S.Just wanted to let you know that I added a small bottle of PVA to my recent LV order (hardware for a bow case). I'm going to give it a try.Best,
   Mark

1. 
   woodensplinter | Mar 09, 2005 01:14am | #19

   Good!  Gota try new things.

   I only buy it in the 500 ml bottles myself.

   I use it preferentially, not exclusively.  If I run out I use something else until I can get more.  I'm 4 hours from the nearest Lee Valley and can't mail order in the winter cause it'll freeze.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 09, 2005 05:51am | #20

   Low cost works for me!

1. 
   woodensplinter | Mar 10, 2005 11:19pm | #21

   This may be one of the very few times that the old saying "You get what you pay for" doesn't necessarily hold true.

3. 
   MarkRD | Mar 20, 2005 10:22pm | #22

   Hi WS - used the PVA for the first time. Hell of a lot easier to work with than the gorilla glue. Grabs quickly too. The application is not going to be a high stress one so I won't be able to get a read on the strenghth, but I did read somewhere that is has a higher sheer force than most woods.Thanks for the tip.Mark
   

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   woodensplinter | Mar 22, 2005 12:02am | #23

   BTW:  After the last round of messages, I went to the shop and glued two pieces of plywood together, kinda like one corner of a face frame.  Just a simple butt joint.  Let it dry overnight, clamped.  The next morning, I broke the joint.  Took a fair bit of pressure and I estimate I got about 50% wood failure.  Considering I didn't over-do the glue (very little squeeze out) and not using anything else to beef up the joint, I was quite happy with that.

   You may have to watch if you plan on using the stuff for biscuit joints.  Trimmed the front edge of a counter using this stuff.  Glad I had some pipe clamps to suck the trim onto the biscuits.  Works fast!  Haven't had a problem with the trim, though.  It's in a high use area and hasn't budged in over two years.

   Good luck.  If you're using lots of glue it probably means you're building lots of stuff.

2. 
   cicero | Mar 24, 2005 09:51pm | #24

   I went here....http://titebond.com/DefaultTB.htm

   I asked the rep which glue was best for a given job,he was able to draw on the knowledge gained by dealing with thousands of customers and a lab that is second to none,funny but I felt quite confident with the glue recommended.

    

   Ha ha and no I am not in their employ.

3. 
   jc21 | Mar 29, 2005 04:05pm | #25

   I'm not a fan of poly glue; I've had inconsistent results and now use Titebond III - I like it. 

4. 
   cicero | Mar 29, 2005 11:23pm | #26

   My Titebond rep suggested Structan for ouside joinery,but now suggest I can use T/B III instead.

   Looked up Structan and see they have a new one out,will post url's as a matter of interest.

   http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive98/12_2sharpexcel.html

   http://www.excelglue.com/EXCEL%20Structan/excel%20structan.html

7. 
   woodensplinter | Mar 03, 2005 07:26am | #13

   Just for your info:

   I was flipping through some back issues of Wood magazine looking for a project and found a test of 15 different glues in the September 2004 issue.  Their top choices were Probond Interior for normal glue ups, Teitebond Extended for glue ups requiring more open time and Gorilla Glue for outdoor projects.

   Might not be a bad idea to see if you or your library has a copy.

1. 
   SBerruezo | Mar 08, 2005 08:59am | #14

   In the next issue of wood, they stated the new Titebond III as the best overall glue.  I use Titebond II for most of my indoor projects, even if moisture is not a problem.  It has a good tack in just a few minutes too.  Polys I would use for only high moisture areas, because they are just too expensive. 

   Young, poor, and eager to learn

1. 
   woodensplinter | Mar 08, 2005 05:49pm | #16

   I think I'm going to give the TiteBond III a try on my outdoor projects.  I haven't used it yet, but, from what I hear, its a little runnier than most PVA's.  Worth a shot anyway.  It is supposed to be good.

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 08, 2005 06:34pm | #17

   There is a thread over in Knots that speaks to the runnyness of the tightbond...Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   woodensplinter | Mar 09, 2005 01:05am | #18

   One of the things that intrigues me with the Titebond III is the lower application temperature.  That will allow me to use the glue outside, in the evening, and not worry about the temperature.  Still won't be able to use it in the morning because of dew, unless I'm building something in the garage.