I have a 1/4 inch parting tool with the standard rectangular cross section which I use on a treadle lathe. The motor for my lathe consists of my 1/8th horsepower right leg and I notice that considerable drag is created making a deep cut with the tool. Would a diamond shaped parting tool or one of those fluted or taper ground tools be a better choice? Is it more difficult to keep the cut perpendicular to the surface of the spindle with these parting tools?
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Replies
Maybe you could get one of the diamond shaped ones and grind it flat on one side for a reference surface.
NEWTRVA,
Blast the %#$&ing parting tool! Show us a photograph your treadle lathe, and tell us all about it.
Alan
The diamond crosssection tool will have less friction. I've never noticed difficulty in keeping it perpendicular. Mine has flat surfaces top and bottom. With a treadle lathe a little friction might be quite noticeable.
Tom
I have the fluted parting tools but I do not use them. I prefer the diamond parting tool. I like to sharpen mine with a hollow grind on the two faces that create the edge. I then use a burnisher to turn a burr on one side of the edge. This makes the parting tool cut while it is slightly angled downward and also limits the shaving depth. In this way I can eliminate catches and also cut in a smooth gentle way. You do have to pay attention to orient the burr correctly but I find it a superior way to part off. There is no problem keeping the edge oriented.
Make one out of a piece of 0.125 or 0.1875 O-1 steel, taper grind it down to 0.0625, bevel it toward the handle from the thick top. Heat it with a propane torch to straw colour, temper in 200 deg F. water or oil, bake at 400 deg F for half an hour and turn oven off. Let cool in oven.
Please post a photo or two of your treadle lathe.
I don't think the type of parting tool makes much difference as far as friction goes. What is the size of the drive wheel? The larger and heavier it is the better. The weight should be heavy on the rim if spoked. A solid wheel will work too.If the shaft bearings are not ball bearings ,change them.How about the drive belt, does it slip when cutting,tighten or add a third jack pulley if you don't already have one.
If the wheel or treadle is not balanced with a counterweight, then add it as neccessary. Make sure your tools are sharp, take lighter cuts as a last resort.
mike
A narrow parting tool may help but change your technique.You may be just stabbing straight in with a parting tool .Try cutting in a little way then moving across the rest slightly and cutting in again.Then back to the original cut,alternate between cuts as you go in .This creates a side clearance.It works for me even on a pole lathe!If you feel it wastes wood get a 1/16" parting tool
Many thanks for all the good ideas.
The flywheel for the lathe is made of laminated pine 27 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick. The bearings are all ball bearings. With this size wheel there is no problem carrying smooth rotation from one revolution to the next. But no matter how massive the wheel. in continuous use your leg has to supply the same amount of energy as is being consumed by the cut.
The lathe is based on one made by Roy Underhill on The Woodwright's Shop. I will try to post some photos over the Thanksgiving holiday.
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