Hey everyone!
I would love some advice or thoughts about a project I am doing. I have made a king size bed out of white oak and my customer is a very natural kind of guy. I brought a piece of white oak to him with shellac, tung oil, and polyurethane to see what type of finish he might like. What does he do? He points to the section of the piece that has no finish and says,
“that”. So he wants plain wood. I think he needs at least SOMETHING to cover/protect the wood. I would LOVE to be done because I’m not a fan of putting on a finish, and I was kind of insistent on putting something on it. Does anyone know of something that I can apply that will maybe protect it at least a little while leaving it just bone white? Let me know your thoughts
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Replies
A water based polycrylic might be a good option.
Thank you for replying. So a flat poly would be your best recommendation?
Water based poly changes wood color the least. Apply too much and the color still doesn't change, but the sheen does.
He may like the look now, but he won't like how the bare wood looks in a few years.
I'm sure he won't be excited to look at his bed in a couple years and think about how he should have gotten a finish put on it. I'm trying to prevent that, but not sure what kind of a fighter I'm going to have on my hands. Thank you for your input
“[Deleted]”
I'm with john C2. A flat or semi-gloss water based poly is probably the best choice. It will add some protection while changing the color of the wood the least. Just sand the oak through 180 grit, add a couple of coats of WB poly. Done.
Explain to your client that the combination of skin oils and dirt, over time, will get real ugly and will be difficult, if not impossible, to clean. The WB poly will allow it to be cleaned when needed.
Agree with all the above, when I want to keep the original color, I go for a few light coats of General Finishes High Performance semi-gloss or satin.
Milesi makes oil and water based natural finishes that are as close to bare wood as I've ever seen. We've used them on bathroom millwork, kitchen cabinetry, and furniture with great success. Great protection and looks like nothing is there. If you aren't set up to spray, they make a dead-flat floor finish that can be hand applied.
Lost Art Press has talked about a soap finish. Not much protection obviously. Could let your customer know about frequent applications.
I just finished a small white-oak box and used General Finishes new High Performance Flat top coat. It’s the more durable version of their Flat Out Flat. Three coats and finished with Satin Finishing Wax.
Ronan Dead Flat. Seals the wood but is almost invisible.
Rubio Monocoat in ‘Natural’ if you wanted an oil option.
Everyone is going to name their favorite and rightly so. However, I do not know that a near-clear, interior finish, requires a $70/qt product. A waterborne polycrylic product will be very clear, stay very clear, and wear decently in a bed-frame-type environment.
I have fought the weird blue-ish tint to GF High Performance and am pretty sure I have abandoned it as an option. I hold out hope as others claim good results. I am always open to the idea that the problem with anything may be . . . me ;-)
Most of my work includes either light or contrasting colored woods - it's normal for me to have European Beech (a very light-colored wood) paired with Walnut or Cherry (on the long-term view of natural darkening).
My go-to topcoat is Deft Waterborne Clear Acrylic, and I hear excellent things about General Finishes' products. However, my sealing coat is typically Zinsser SealCoat, which darkens everything it touches. What I'd like to find... in the 'invisible' coat category... is a clear sealing coat that doesn't raise the grain.
It sounds like the desire is to have the white oak have the white look it has when unfinished.
I see above my answer of a soap finish has already been taken.
You can try beeswax.
I suspect that the answer will be one of the pigmented hard wax finishes - Osmo and Rubio do these. Were it my project, I'd show him some Rubio Cotton White finish - bet you that's the winner.
Thanks to all of you that have replied. I am grateful for this input. I have heard some input and of some finished/brands I haven't heard before so I'm definitely appreciate for everyone's advice!
I appreciate your dilemma. I had some Target water-based Lacquer (EM6000, Satin ) left over from a project this summer, so I tried it on some oak. This was their Satin, they also offer a Flat. This was two coats, brushed. I don't know how much more transparent you could expect a finish to get. If you want, I can either send you my sample or send you some of the left-over product to test. Email me at [my namehere]@f l u i d d y n a m i c s.com (just get rid of the spaces.)
Maybe a little left field - perhaps a natural soap finish. Early Nordic often used pure soap as a finish and applied using a rubber as in like French polishing. It is not very durable, but on a bed, it may not be necessary. As I say, a bit left field.
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