Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 01, 2002 10:05pm | #1

   You can use any Type I or Type II adhesive. Type II's are water resistant and work fine in applications where the joint is not continually submerged. Type I adhesives are for totally and always submerged applications. The Type I adhesives are resorcinol and slow set epoxy. Type II's are PVA's like Titebond II, urea resins, poly glues, etc.

2. 
   DennisS | Sep 02, 2002 09:14am | #2

   > .....would gorilla glue be a wise choice or should I use west system epoxy.

   Have you used Gorilla glue before? I've only done one project with it and man, what a mess you can create for yourself. But it's sure tough, and totally waterproof. Your stuff won't come apart if you use it. I tested some pieces of redwood that I was gluing up for an exterior handrail by leaving them submerged in water for about a week. There was no evidence oj joint failure at the glue line that I could tell.

   Wear rubber gloves to avoid turning your skin a deep suntan color (grin).

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   tkumpf | Sep 02, 2002 06:29pm | #3

   Dennis,

   Thanks for the info. Your experiences seem to indicate that gorilla glue will do the job.  I have used the stuff before and I know what you mean about rbber gloves. Thanks again.

   tom

2. 
   user-257248 | Oct 31, 2002 06:40pm | #4

   I have used Gorilla glue for several outdoor projects.  After seeing joints fail, I am not such a big fan anymore.  I have gone back to using the Titebond II.

   When talking about exterior glues, everyone's primary concern is moisture.  But the sun can be a menace as well.

   Something else to consider w/ the G glue.  It does have a limited shelf life.  That can be irritating as this stuff is expensive.

1. 
   Shepherd1800 | Nov 01, 2002 03:38pm | #6

   Polyurethane foaming glues are touted as being 'gap filling' however it is just filling a large gap or void with much smaller gaps and voids, it is foam, mostly empty space.  While it may be waterproof it offers little structural strength.  For exterior work resorcinol or epoxy would probably be a better choice.

    

   Stephen

1. 
   BenM | Nov 01, 2002 07:59pm | #7

   One thing I have noticed about poly glue that no one seems to have mentioned is that the foam gets into the pores of open grained woods like red oak (besides everywhere else - its messy stuff).  To get rid of the foam you actually have to pare away some of the wood - not good if you hadn't planned on it.  I also find that poly irritates my skin so gloves are a necessity.

3. 
   rholland54 | Nov 01, 2002 03:26pm | #5

   I prefer the West System Epoxy because of the gap filling ability, if you add the filler.  I do not think the Gorilla Glue will fill gaps if you have a poorly fitted joint, at least from a structural standpoint.  The glue does expand as it cures but you have to clamping pressure and/or tight joints.

                            Robert

1. 
   tkumpf | Nov 02, 2002 01:12am | #8

   Robert:

   Thanks for the info, I have decided to use west system for the very reasons you give

   tom

1. 
   PlaneWood | Nov 02, 2002 01:24am | #9

   Poly glue makes good 'morter' for building brick flower garden borders!  About 3 dime sized spots per brick is all that's needed.  The foam-out even aged to a dark color which matched my bricks.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

1. 
   AlanTurner | Nov 02, 2002 08:35pm | #11

   What a wonderful suggestion.  I think I will give my last bottle to my wife for garden work.  I used it once, but then went to West System and wouldnot go back for anything.  That stuff is a real mess!  Very unpleasant to work with.

2. 
   alias | Nov 02, 2002 03:41am | #10

   you cant go wrong with west sys. it's hands down best for outside projects....... bear