Gentelmen: I’m building outdoor patio furniture, Swings, Picnic tables, Chairs, storage buildings etc. I am using Eastern Cedar – aromatic cedar, In the past I have been using a spar varnish but it has not performed as well over the years as I would have liked. I am now using an auto clear coat like is used after the paint is applied on cars, the problem I am having is that the wood is soaking the clear coat up as fast as I can ptu it on. The can says not to be used with Acrylic Lacquers. I’m in hopes some of you have used clear coat and know what I can use for a sealer, as I am at a lose.
Please Help!
Doc.
*None of the secrets of success will work unless you do!
Replies
Generally automotive clearcoats have very little solids. This means that they will continue to be absorbed for many, many coats. In addition, each new coat re-dissolves the prior coat so you end up with just a new liquid. Automotive finishes are not a good choice for wood finishes. They are not flexible enough to deal with wood movement. They would be even more inappropriate for an external wood application as wood in an outdoor environment will be constantly expanding/contracting.
Howie
I am really glad to hear your response about my problem. All that you wrote I did not know, as I had been told about clear coat by a paint and body man that had made some indoor furnisher. This brings me back to another question:
What would be the best gloss finish that I should use on my outdoor furniture? I would like to make it as care free as possible, and if you have a suggestion who would a person take care of it?
As I stated before I have been using a spar varnish but after the first year or so it begins to give way and the graying takes over.
Again Thanks for all you can give me.
DOC.*None of the secrets of success will work unless you do!
The initial application of spar varnish is just the first stage of ANNUAL MAINTENANCE. A good spar varnish, properly applied should last a full year, and be ready to be scuff sanded and a new coat applied. (Twice a year in tropical climes.) Any dings must be promply repaired. You might get an extra year by priming with a couple of coats of a very low viscosity epoxy, such as Smith & Co. CPES, but I am just testing it now on my boat's teak.
For a gloss clear finish, you MUST use a real marine traditional spar varnish--Epifanes, ZSpar Captains (Pettit). There are no products sold in the big box stores or regular paint stores that qualify, regardless of the nautical sounding names. And, you can't cheat by applying fewer than the six coats called for.
For reduced maintenance, use the best quality exterior gloss paint you can find. The pigment in paint provides dramatically more UV protection than is available in any clear finish. Again, an additional coat must be applied when the gloss begins to fade.
Or, provide a Sunbrella cover.
Let me re-emphasize Steve's last point. You would be best to spend your money on a good cover if you want to maintain the appearence for the longest time. Sunbrella is a material used for sail covers and other marine applications where protection from sunlight is desired. Covers or keeping the item under cover whenever it's not being used is the only way to maintain appearence in the long run.
Clear coatings, particularly big box, consumer quality, exterior poly finishes are almost worthless. Unless properly formulated with the correct UV inhibitors, poly exterior varnishes do not last. UV attacks poly and it rapidly deteriorates as you have found out.Howie.........
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