Replies

1. 
   user-7022764 | Feb 26, 2021 04:18pm | #1

   I use the Minwax spar varnish at school because its inexpensive and available at my local lumberyard it works great. I also tend to cut down on how much BLO I use with kids as they tend to not wipe down as well.

   At home if I'm using my own blend I like to use marine varnishes usually Interlux Schooner varnish. Marine varnishes are not as cheap but they tend to dry a little faster an be a bit more durable. I usually use way less BLO with my own personal finishes so it dries harder.

   If I'm not mixing it myself my preference is Daly's ProFin which is a tung-oil varnish blend, which dries fast and hard. Its a local company from Washington and available around the PNW. I can usually get two dry coats a day with it vs 1 with the home brew.

1. 
   thebardowl | Feb 26, 2021 06:38pm | #4

   I’ll have to see what I can learn and how readily I might acquire this Daly’s ProFin stuff.

   W/R/T drying times of spar/marine varnishes, I was under the impression they actually took longer to dry, and left a finish perhaps not quite as refined, but more durable. Do I have that wrong? I’ve not had the chance to compare, but my use suggests that, at least as I mix it, it does take a while to dry, varying of course with humidity, temp, etc. (I’ve been using the Minwax Helmsman Spar Varnish, btw, perhaps the same you’re referring to.)

   Edit: I’ve discovered that they’ve got an online store, and so a quart of ProFin is on the way. Not cheap stuff, and with the shipping, it’s borderline ridiculous, but I’m willing to pay a bit extra to broaden horizons and learn a bit that might be useful later. Knowledge isn’t always cheap or easy!

2. 
   bilyo | Feb 26, 2021 06:08pm | #2

   I have used an oil based polyurethane and it works just fine. Poly probably results in a slightly harder finish than spar varnish. I have also substituted tung oil (pure tung oil, not the tung oil finish) for linseed oil. That gives a lighter colored finish. Also, I sometimes add japan drier, according to directions, to make it dry faster. Alkyd based varnish also works just fine, but I'm not sure how available it is these days.

1. 
   thebardowl | Feb 26, 2021 06:34pm | #3

   It seems as if several of the old-school preferred varnishes have been killed off in the name of VOC regulations and the like. I’ve been thinking of simply moving over to a standard oil-based poly, probably much as you do. Other than the lighter finish with tung oil, does the mix behave any differently (of significance)? And re the Japan drying agent—any drawbacks to that? If not, I’m trying to see why it’s not more commonly used; faster drying, all things being equal, seems a good thing.

1. 
   bilyo | Feb 26, 2021 10:19pm | #5

   I'm no chemist. My understanding is that japan drier is for use to help oil based finishes dry in cool or humid conditions. I've read that if you use too much, it may have an adverse effect; cracking or crazing. So, follow directions.

   I have not noticed any significant difference using the various components. As mentioned, changing the ratios will have some effect on film build and/or drying times. BTW, you can also substitute turpentine for mineral spirits. IMO, it improves the smell considerably ;>)

1. 
   thebardowl | Feb 26, 2021 10:55pm | #6

   Thanks for the note about Japan drier. Also, I’d wondered about substitution of turpentine for mineral spirits; I’ve heard that’s basically the reason turpentine is used more in the art world, so perhaps that’s true, though I’m no expert in either world.

3. 
   user-7022764 | Feb 26, 2021 11:22pm | #7

   A note on turpentine: if you have never been around it before be very careful your first. A pretty high proportion of people are extremely allergic to it. It makes me sick for days, my lungs itch and are tight too. Awful.

1. 
   thebardowl | Feb 27, 2021 11:10am | #8

   Thanks for the important note about turpentine allergy. I didn’t know that. As it turns out, I’ve used it before, so I don’t think I should have any problems with it. Very useful to know, though, and I wish I’d known it earlier.

4. 
   davec_5 | Feb 27, 2021 04:50pm | #9

   You might want to go to the Lost Art Press site, to their blog tab, and search for "Shop Finish". They have a post on this very finish with explanation of why they use Minwax Helmsman Spar Varnish, as well as odorless mineral spirits instead of turpentine.

1. 
   thebardowl | Feb 27, 2021 05:13pm | #10

   Many thanks! Turns out I’m doing pretty much what they describe as my initial experience with the idea. (The only difference is that the mineral spirits I’ve been using aren’t odorless, but just what I had on hand.) I didn’t see any mention of turpentine, however—just the emphasis on odorless MS. I think the use of odorless MS is an obviously good choice, and I’ll switch to that going forward.