Replies

1. 
   ohcomeon | Nov 04, 2005 08:11pm | #1

   I don't think you will get good depth control with the jack.  Just use the depth adjuster.  I do that with my Makita.  If it will remain in the table (not come out for freehand work) take the springs out for better/easier adjustability.

   As for the table, do a search here and you'll find lots of opinions; free standing, TS extension, plate inserts vs. just cutting a hole, materials, etc.

   I used a sink countertop cutout (laminate) from a local kitchen supply shop, cut to size and fit it as an extension of my table saw w/ edgebanding and some support bracing.  Serves a dual purpose and I made a fence w/ dust port, adjustable faces that attaches to the saw fence.  I use a Rousseau phenolic insert, but I don't recommend it.  The built-in crown is bogus in my opinion.  Even with the Rousseau plate I have well less than a Ben Franklin invested.

   
   

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   Edited 11/4/2005 1:22 pm ET by ohcomeon

2. 
   alanplanesaw | Nov 05, 2005 01:47am | #2

   Depends on how much space you have, what you will typically build, and, ultimately, what you want to do.

   I built Norms new and improved version.  Love it.  Modified it a bit to fit my needs, but you wind up with great storage, excellent dust controll.

   I put a Jessem MastRLift and Jessem fence.  Cost a bit more than making my own fence, but accurate from the minute it was installed, and sped up the time of making the table.

   Planesaw- Alan

1. 
   John_D | Nov 05, 2005 02:43am | #3

   Do you have a source for plans for Norm's latest and greatest?

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Nov 05, 2005 03:34am | #4

   http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?0301

   Since I used the Jessem fence, I had to reduce the width of the cabinet by 2 inches.  Other than that, I built it per the plans.

   Very sturdy, heavy.  Doesn't walk or move when I am running anything heavy through it.

   Planesaw - Alan

3. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 05, 2005 07:42pm | #5

   Just me.. SO take it with a grain of salt.. I have several tables..

   I would suggest a table sized for the type of work you will do.. Any surface is OK as long as it is FLAT.. I would suggest you size it so the 'work' is fully supported.. As in.. Height, width, and depth.. Dose not have to be big but I feel you get better results if the work can go from start to finish with full table support.. I think safer too.... Well, not all work.. Just what you do most and want good control... WAX on the table is your friend!

   EDIT:: Just take the router/plate out to adjust the bit.. and a foot operated on/off switch is 'nice'...

   
   

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   Edited 11/5/2005 12:44 pm by WillGeorge

4. 
   forestgirl | Nov 06, 2005 10:12am | #6

   I've been using the Veritas solid steel top (from Lee Valley) for a couple years now, and I aboslutely love it.  It has a universal mounting system, so that you can put any router in it without having to worry about mounting plates and all that junk.  Magnetic accessories work on it.  It'll stay nice and flat, and all you have to do is build a frame to drop it into.  If you want, and most of us do of course, you can build a full-fledged router cabinet.

   They also make a quality fence and right-angle sled.  In general, the accessories are quite reasonably priced.  I especially like the work hold-downs, which are like the ones on shapers, albeit a bit expensive now.

   One thing I found since I put the Freud FT2000E in it is that, because the top is only 3/16" thick, I have above-the-table bit removal without using a special wrench.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Burts | Nov 07, 2005 01:21am | #10

   Couldn't agree more with the Veritas router tables.  I have four of them.  They are just good simple mechanical devices.  I also Makita 3612c routers in some of mine.  I added the veritas bit jack and that makes life nice.

1. 
   Lyptus | Nov 07, 2005 08:17pm | #11

   I'm building a custom router table- 27" x 42" to accommodate my Incra LS Positioner.  It is bigger than I wanted for my small shop but I got a good price on the Incra jig and I'll store my large shop vac underneath so the space won't be wasted.   I will also set the height at 36" so that it can as extension to my bench/chopsaw station.  I'm modeling it after the FWW article in 2003 on the ultimate router table.  FYI~ if I already had a dovetail jig- I would have purchased the veritas top and fence.

   - Lyptus

5. 
   BG | Nov 06, 2005 03:13pm | #7

   sawdust,
   I'd seperate the decision a bit to fit your circumstances. Norm's router table is great because it has space for everything and everything is right there at your finger tips...minimizes set up time greatly.
   To keep cost down, I put my 1 gal. vac in with the router and plug both into a power strip (no switch required)...perhaps you could try your jack idea.
   Lastly, I think the metal tops(inserts) are best...whatever you can afford.

6. 
   DougF | Nov 06, 2005 05:26pm | #8

   Sam, I previously posted pics of a router cabinet I built from plans contained in Bill Hylton's router book.  See my post  16465.1 if you are interested.  The best thing was that you get a really great router book and the plans for the same price.  From the pictures I've seen of Norm's router cabinet, I don't think there is much difference but this is the one I choose to build.

   
   

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   Edited 11/6/2005 9:29 am by DougF

1. 
   sawdustandshavings | Nov 06, 2005 05:47pm | #9

   Doug,

   Thanks for the pictures they have really helped me make my mind up, I really like the stained glass on the front.

   Regards,

   Sam