I have just cleaned up a pine work bench for my son, which he bought second hand.
It took me ages getting if flat and getting rid of the surface dents and bumps.
The work surface is some 3 inches thick and I am wondering what to finish it with so it will last longer under normal working conditions.
Can you help please?
Mike
Replies
Pine is soft enough that it will dent relatively easily regardless of what kind of finish one uses. I imagine that a floor finish would probably give you the best durability without having to resort to catalyzed finishes. Applying multiple coats, per the manufactorer's instructions of course, would give you the best protection.
Regards,
Kevin
I built the "new fangled workbench" which was featured a few years back in FWW. It's made of doug fir and I finished it with three coats of boiled linseed oil followed by some Briwax. I reapply the Briwax from time to time and it has worked out great. As another poster said, the pine will be soft, but the finish will protect the wood from warping and damage during glue ups. I like the finish I used because it is easily repairable whereas a floor finish wouldn't be.
I like the finish I used because it is easily repairable whereas a floor finish wouldn't be.
That's an excellent point, Don! Pine is soft enough that it'd make a whole lot of sense for him to consider the ease of refinishing it down the road while he's pondering his finish options now.
Regards,
Kevin
Thanks....
You know when you say ...DOWN THE ROAD....
at first I thought you meant I had to move the bench some where else!!!******(ie. down the road, me and the wife lugging this huge pine workbench through the streets of our local town!!!!)
after reading it again I now understand what you meant!
Thanks for you're help, it's good speaking with you guys, will get waxing this morning.
Mike
Some of these colloquialisms don't translate very well region to region. LOL
BTW, I notice that your profile says that you hail from "North of England." Where abouts in Scotland do you live? Or do you live even further north than that?
Regards,
Kevin
Kevin,
I live about 90 miles from the Boarder of Scotland and England.......
Miles away from the mad world of London and all.
Thank's for the help the bench looks in fine shape now.
Mike
Mike
Yep, that's exactly what he meant. You've got to take it across town to do it right. While your at the store, purchase a loggin' chain and drag it behind the car bumper. It will be easier. he....
That's right, cars don't have bumpers for dragging anymore. Guess I'm getting to be a fossil. The good news is I still love a chuckle. ha..ha..
BG's idea of shellac will work also. The main thing is to go light with whatever you use so that down the road (the en-evitable will come) you will have to take it across town and refinish again.
Have a great Saturday afternoon...
sarge..jt
Mike
Don is on the right track. The pine will dent easily no matter what finish you use. The oil finish with wax is perfect. I have stripped poly or varathane off a complete bench for a friend. Three days total to get it all off. The paper clogs and is a pain.
Too apply a new coat of wax is simple. Even if you sand to get light scratches out, it won't take more than an hour.
Good Luck...
sarge..jt
you are all fine gentlemen!!!
Thank's for the help with the pine bench finish.
It's Saturday morning over here 7.00, and I'm up checking to see if there are any replies to my question...........
Now I can get to the store and start waxing....
Thank's guys
Mike
Strongbo1,
Just for a second opinion on a suitable finish for a workbench, I went with shellac. As the others have mentioned, you want something that is easy to repair and provides some protection from moisture and glue, etc. Shellac is better at protection from moisture, easily removed and numerous coats can be applied in one day.
Boiled Linseed Oil that is if you use it for a workbench
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled